The tamest of the bunch
If it’s your first visit to Lesotho, or if you prefer to sleep on white linen after a day’s hike, Ts’ehlanyane should be your first pick. It’s a well-managed park with good facilities, mainly due to the influence of five-star Maliba Lodge. The lodge is on the banks of the Hlotse River. From the deck, you have a view of the Hlotse Valley – it feels like you’re surrounded by mountains. Hiking trails: The Hlotse River is only a few minutes’ walk from the chalets and there’s a pool where you can soak up some Vitamin D on a rock. In summer you’ll have an abundance of swimming spots to choose from because there are four rivers and several waterfalls that flow through the park. There are five hiking trails in the park, ranging from easy half-day routes to strenuous day hikes. If you only have one day, pack a picnic basket and walk to the Valley of the Pools, a 5 km stretch of river with 16 pools. Follow the Upper Trail or Lower Trail to Black Lake and look for the Valley of the Pools sign. It’s 5,6 km from the lodge. The Upper Trail (3,2 km) steadily climbs to a contour path with views of the Hlotse Valley before descending to Black Lake, a dark pool in the river. It’s a great spot for a picnic and a swim on a hot afternoon. From there, you can hike up through mountain bamboo forests to MatsaMararo, a waterfall with three levels. The Lower Trail (3,1 km) hugs the river and runs to Black Lake through indigenous forests with lots of birds. Ask at the lodge for a list of at least 57 bird species you can see in the park, from hamerkop and black-headed heron to spotted eagle-owl and Steppe buzzard. You also have a good chance of seeing bushbuck and eland in the reeds. This is an easy trail for the whole family – on a hot day, there’s more than enough shade to keep you cool, and lots of places to swim in the river. The strenuous Litsumi Cave Trail (8,4 km) climbs to a cave where porcupines like to hang out. The Waterfall Trail (4,7 km) and Circular Route (13 km) are for more experienced hikers. If you’re one of those hikers and you enjoy a challenge, do the overnight hike to Bokong Nature Reserve (32 km). More things to do: The Maliba Bana Club is a children’s centre for three- to twelve-year-olds. They’ll keep your kids busy by teaching them how to catch tadpoles and how to ride a pony. They offer archery lessons, guided outings to see rock art and dinosaur tracks, as well as cultural outings to a nearby Basotho community. Maliba also has five 4x4 trails in the area and a spa if you prefer to take things easy. Facilities & rates: There’s a basic backpackers’ lodge near the gate with communal ablution facilities (not part of Maliba Lodge). Rates from R150 per person. Maliba Lodge offers three accommodation options: twin-sleeper self-catering riverside cabin from R750 per person (cabins not available for bookings from June to August); eightsleeper self-catering river lodge from R1 632 per night for four people; twin-sleeper five-star chalet from R1 430 per person with meals included. There are no camping facilities in the park. Park fees: R30 per person; R10 per vehicle (once-off). How to get there? Ts’ehlanyane is about 45 km from the Caledonspoort border post. Drive to Butha-Buthe and follow the A1 for about 5 km. Turn left onto the tar road to the town of Khabo. Continue along this road for 32 km and look for the sign to Maliba Lodge. Niggles? It’s hard to find fault. The other two parks should take notes… Contact: Maliba Lodge 031 702 8791; maliba-lodge.com; park office 00266 6858 4740