The oldest and most remote
The “easiest” way to get to this park is via the long, rocky road from the Ramatseliso’s Gate border post (about six hours). Like any other place that’s hard to reach, you’ll be rewarded with silence and solitude when you arrive. The facilities are brand new – there’s a big reception office, houses for park officials, a vegetable patch and even a motor workshop. Like in Bokong, however, most of the buildings are empty. When I arrive at the reception office, the official on duty has to hunt for the permit book in another room. A bookshelf is packed with a colourful collection of books, including a Sawubona magazine, a report on sustainable agriculture and a book titled Compact Kilimanjaro. On one wall, there’s a poster about Lesotho’s fauna and flora and a 2017 year planner – the only entry for the rest of the year reads “Sonja Swanepoel, 7 people”. A new lodge and visitors’ centre about 2 km from the gate have been under construction for years, and they’re still not open. After a long day’s drive you’ll have to stay in a basic (but neat) rondavel next to the reception office, or pitch your tent near the new lodge. If you’re driving a 4x4, take the gravel road to the deserted park ranger quarters (formerly Jonathan’s Lodge) about 8 km from the gate. If you don’t have a 4x4, park at the new lodge and hike there. A short walk from the park ranger quarters will take you to some of the most scenic sandstone formations, rock pools and rock arches in the park. This is also where you can take an iconic landscape photo of the Devil’s Knuckles – a series of knobbly mountain peaks that glow orange in the first rays of the sun. There are several river pools that reflect the landscape on a windless day. Yes, your photos from Sehlabathebe will make your Facebook friends spew envy emojis. Hiking trails: The trails aren’t clearly marked and brochures about the park are as scarce as tourists. You should manage one of the shorter trails on your own, but if you want to do any of the longer hikes, it’s best to hire a guide for a measly R40 per group. With a guide, you can see some of the 130 rock art sites in the park, some caves, or Tsoelikana Falls, which has a pool where you can swim. If you’re not keen to hike, hire a pony for R100 per person. Wildlife: According to the park brochure, you can see black-backed jackals, baboons, eland and even otters, but I only saw mountain reedbuck. Birders can look for bearded vulture, Verreaux’s eagle and wattled crane. The most unique resident of the park is the Maluti redfin – a freshwater fish species that was thought to be extinct until it was rediscovered in the icy waters of the Tsoelikana River in 1971. Facilities & rates: There are two self-catering rondavels that share a communal kitchen and bathroom: R250 per person (cash only), bedding included. Bring your own food, drinks and firewood. Once-off park fee R30 per person. You can also camp near the lodge (there are ablution facilities) for R80 per person. How to get there? The closest border posts are Ramatseliso’s Gate (33 km) and Qacha’s Nek (80 km) – both to the south. You can access the park in any vehicle with a high ground clearance. You can also reach the park from the north via Matebeng Pass, but you’ll need a low-range 4x4. This pass is very rocky after heavy rains and in winter there will be ice and snow. If you want to drive the 197 km from Sani Pass to the north, it will take at least eight hours. Niggles? It’s a shame the lodge is still not open. Contact Zambezi Kanyemba Safaris on 076 640 3653 for info about when it might open. Contact: 00266 6253 7565 or 00266 5853 7565. You can also call park official Sefali Lesansana on 00266 6386 8034 to make a booking or find out about road conditions. If he doesn’t answer, leave a message – cellphone reception is patchy.