12-Day 4x4 alternative
DAY 1 & 2 Goo-Moremi and Khama Rhino Sanctuary
Follow the same routes as described in the 4x2 itinerary.
DAY 3 Khama Rhino Sanctuary to Kubu Island
Kubu Island is one of Botswana’s holy places, with its singular scenery of baobabs on a rocky “island” on the shimmering expanse of the Makgadikgadi. Take all your drinking (and other) water along, and remember to remove all your rubbish when you leave. The road to Kubu has deep sand in places. If the pan is wet, don’t drive on it at all. You’ll get stuck until Christmas.
STAY HERE
Kubu Island Camping costs P110 (R138) per person, plus one-off conservation fee of P30 (R38) per person. The Gaing-O Trust runs the site. Day visitors pay P60 (R75) per adult; discount for kids under 15. Wood P18 (R23) per bundle. There are only pit toilets. GPS: S20.89105 E25.82175 Contact: 00 267 297 9612 (Babsie/Mathapa); kubu.island@ btcmail.co.bw
DAY 4 Kubu Island
Most tour groups spend only one night here, but why? An extra day means you’ll have two sunsets and sunrises to photograph. Take a drive to the northern edge of the pans. You might see animals, but the unique landscape is an attraction in itself.
DAY 5 Kubu Island to Kumaga Camp
Drive back to Letlhakane (fill up if required) and travel via Mopipi and Rakops to Xhumaga. Cross the Boteti River using the pont and enter Makgadikgadi National Park – camp at the Kumaga campsite.
STAY HERE
Kumaga Camp Park entry: P120 (R150) per adult; P60 (R75) per child aged 8 – 17. Vehicle fee P50 (R63) per day. Pont: When the Boteti is dry, or very shallow, you can just drive through. Otherwise, a pont operates from sunrise until sunset: P150 (R188) per vehicle; P200 (R251) if you’re towing something. Accommodation: The camp is managed by the SKL group. Camping costs R250 per adult; R125 per child aged 8 – 17; R60 per child aged 5 – 7; free for children under 5. There are 10 stands under camel thorn trees, with shared ablution facilities. Bring your own drinking water. GPS: S20.45577 E24.51687 Contact: 00 267 686 5365; reservations@sklcamps.co.bw; sklcamps.com
DAY 6 Kumaga to Njuca Hills/Tree Island
Makgadikgadi National Park isn’t one of Botswana’s popular parks – it’s purely for wilderness fanatics (like go! readers). Head to one of their two bush camps, Njuca Hills or Tree Island. You’ll see less game as you drive away from the Boteti, but you come here for vast vistas and that feeling of being the only person around for what feels like hundreds of kilometres.
STAY HERE Njuca Hills and Tree Island
These two campsites are about 50 km east of the park’s Kumaga gate, and about 10 km apart. Both are on a slight rise, overgrown with shrubs and trees, and surrounded by grasslands and small pans. Each camp has two stands and the only facilities are long drops and bucket showers – bring your own water. As a result, camping only costs P30 (R38) per person. The campsites are managed by the Department of Wildlife and National Parks. GPS: Njuca Hills S20.43075 E24.87337 Tree Island S20.49017 E24.91743 Contact: 00 267 318 0774; dwnp@gov.bw
DAY 7 Makgadikgadi to Nxai Pan National Park
Follow the sand track north out of Makgadikgadi National Park, briefly join up with the A3 tar road, then turn off to Nxai Pan National Park. At times, the landscape in Nxai Pan reminds one of Etosha. Stop at Baines’ Baobabs for photos. You can camp nearby, but the best campsite for game viewing is South Camp as it’s close to the permanent waterhole. If you’re lucky you’ll hear lions in the darkness…
STAY HERE
South Camp Park entry: P120 (R151) per adult; P60 (R75) per child aged 8 – 17. Vehicle fee P50 (R63) per day. Accommodation: Of the 10 stands, numbers 3 to 7 have the most shade. (You’ll need it!) The ablution buildings are spick and span and you can take a hot shower thanks to solar geysers. It costs US$25 (R304) per adult; US$12,50 (R152) per child aged 8 – 17; free for kids under 8. These rates include government levies. GPS: S19.936430 E24.776350 Contact: 00 267 73 867 221; xomaesites.com
Baines’ Baobabs Park fees as above. The three stands aren’t under the famous baobabs, they’re a little distance away, offering views of the baobabs and over Kudiakam Pan. Accommodation: Camping costs US$30 (R365) per adult; US$15 (R182) per child aged 8 – 17; free for kids under 8. There are long drops and bucket showers only – bring water. GPS: S20.13948 E24.77011 Contact: 00 267 73 867 221; xomaesites.com
DAY 8 Nxai Pan National Park
The longer you stay in one place, the more you’ll see. Nxai Pan is the best wildlife destination on your itinerary, so max out. Follow the gaze of an alarmed springbok and you might see a cheetah stalking it…
DAY 9 Nxai Pan to Woodlands Stop Over
You’ll be so high on bush bliss by now that your system will get a shock when you drive into the “busy” town of Nata. Fill up and head south to Woodlands Stop Over just north of Francistown. (See 4x2 itinerary, Day 9.)
DAY 10, 11 & 12 Woodlands Stop Over to Tuli Block
Follow the same route as suggested in our 4x2 itinerary.