SHIMUWINI BUSHVELD CAMP

Shimuwini and Biyamiti are head-to-head in the race for best bushveld camp. Guests have access to a 15 km section of private road with several turn-offs to the Letaba River, and a big baobab. Shimuwini’s trump card? It’s the only bushveld camp with a swimming pool, which is essential if you visit the Kruger in summer. But it’s also in the mopane woodland region of the park, which doesn’t attract many grazers. “There are animals here,” says hospitality services manager Christo Knox, who has worked in the camp for six years. “It just takes a little more effort to find them. I often see lions on the drive to Phalaborwa. On the S141 you’ll see waterbuck and hippos next to the river, and you might see buffalo and giraffe too, if you drive slowly. But the best thing about the camp is that you don’t actually have to drive anywhere. The 15 units are all on the banks of the Letaba River and there are benches under the trees. Last December, a pride of lions walked along the river and stayed until nightfall, and a leopard caught an antelope right over there in broad daylight.” After I’ve settled into my cottage, I position my chair on the stoep overlooking the river. A goliath heron lands on an island and a hippo nurks, as if telling everyone in the vicinity to quieten down. I have an afternoon nap followed by a quick dip in the swimming pool, then I walk along the fence to the bird hide. The setting sun casts a pink glow on the water and black herons huddle together in the riverbed. Although there’s plenty to see in the Shimuwini area, Christo suggested that I should rather use my time here to relax. “Spend the day on your stoep,” he said. “There aren’t many places in the park where your unit will be this close to the water.” Before I head to bed, I shine my headlamp over the lawn and the water one more time. I can’t wait to wake up to this scene tomorrow. Facilities? Cottages (each sleeps four) and guest cottages (each sleeps five or six). Our unit needed a little TLC – the curtains were too short and the kitchen cupboards were rickety – but it was well equipped. (Fish knives and soup spoons anyone? Just in case you’re planning a threecourse meal…) Pro tip: Book unit #9 – it burnt down and was recently renovated. Units #1 and #15 are popular because they offer some privacy. Unit #1 doesn’t have a great view of the river. Niggles? There’s a flight route overhead so you might hear the odd aircraft passing. Rates: From R1 433 per night for two people, plus R434 per extra adult and R217 per extra child. Contact: 013 735 6683 (reception)