DAY 28 – 29

Mkomazi (245 km)

Rejoin the tar on the way to Moshi, but only go as far as Same. Use this town as your base to explore Mkomazi National Park for a day. Highlights: Mkomazi is a quiet park home to reclusive antelope species like the gerenuk and the lesser kudu, plus endemic birds like orange-bellied parrot, D’Arnaud’s barbet and Von der Decken’s hornbill. Stay here: Elephant Motel elephantmotel.com

DAY 30 Arusha (180 km)

Continue through Moshi towards Arusha and sleep just outside Arusha National Park. If you’re there by lunchtime, go for a game drive in the afternoon. Highlight: You see Mount Meru – and Kili! Stay here: Meru Mbega Lodge & Campsite baobabvillage.com

DAY 31– 33 Tarangire (150 km)

Arusha is your last big town for a while. Stock up on supplies and sort out your vehicle if required. Next, drive to Tarangire National Park and sleep just outside the park so you can go in for day visits. Highlights: Tarangire is Tanzania at its best: lions, cheetahs, elephants, baobabs, swamps… Stay here: Wild Palm campsite. (No need to book – just pitch up. No contact details available.) GPS: S3.68161 E35.947859

DAY 34 Lake Manyara (65 km)

It’s not a long drive today, so you can get to Panorama Safari Camp early. The nearby village of Mto Wa Mbu has a very good fresh produce market. Visit Lake Manyara National Park in the afternoon. Highlights: If time is limited, stay near the northern end of the park where you’ll find huge flocks of photogenic pelicans and plenty of hippos. The park is also famous for its treeclimbing lions. (Of course, they’re not always in the trees.) Stay here: Panorama Safari Camp panoramasafaricamp.com

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35 – 36 Ngorongoro (50 km)

It’s hard to beat a volcanic crater teeming with wildlife, but you’ll pay a premium for the privilege. (See the info box on page 36 about descending into the crater part of the Ngorongoro Conservancy.) If the crater isn’t on your bucket list, give it a skip and go for a drive elsewhere in the conservancy. The distant, wild