DAY 47 – 48

Kibuye, Rwanda (94 km)

The mountain road from Gisenyi to Kibuye must rank as one of the most scenic routes in Africa. (It might even be tarred by the time you get there.) It’s all lush greenery, tea plantations cascading down steep slopes and Lake Kivu glittering to the west. Kibuye is worth a two-day stay. (Or forever, if you ask us!) Take a boat trip to one of the little islands in the lake. Highlight: Linger at the breakfast table with a pot of Rwanda’s finest coffee. Write a few postcards home. Ah, holiday. Stay here: Hotel Béthany

DAY 49 – 50

00 250 252 568 235

Nyungwe Forest (108 km)

Continue south along the lakeshore then turn away to Nyungwe National Park. The campsite at Uwinka – high on a forest ridge – is so cute you’ll want to roll it up and take it home with you. Highlights: This rainforest is home to endemic birds like the Ruwenzori turaco, Archer’s robin-chat, redcollared babbler, white-headed wood-hoopoe and dwarf honeyguide. You can also go on a chimpanzee trek. Stay here: Uwinka rwandatourism.com

DAY 51 Kigali, Rwanda (207 km)

Drive back to the capital. Do some grocery shopping. It’s time to start the long journey home… Highlight: You’ll be back at that Chinese restaurant, guaranteed! Stay here: Hotel Tangren

DAY 52

00 250 788 888 809

Benaco/Nyakasanza, Tanzania (172 km)

Drive back into Tanzania via the Rusumu border post and sleep at Dream Land Motel again. Don’t drive further. Leave enough time in case you’re delayed at the border. Highlight: The receptionist at Dream Land will welcome you back like an old friend. Stay here: Dream Land Motel GPS: S2.50273 E30.85419

DAY 53 – 54 Kigoma, Tanzania (400 km)

Start early. Most of today’s route is gravel, which is easy to drive in the dry season. ( Wet season, who knows?) Drive to Kigoma on the shore of Lake Tanganyika. Explore next door Ujiji (where Stanley found Livingstone) or extend your stay and visit Gombe Stream National Park, famous for its chimps ( tanzaniaparks.go.tz). Highlights: Swim in the lake and visit the Livingstone Museum in Ujiji. Look out for the colourful embroidered cloths sold on the roadside in Ujiji. Stay here: Jakobsen’s Beach newsite.kigomabeach.com