BEACHY BREKKIE

Dur­ban’s Best Break­fasts

Indwe - - Turn It Up! - Text: Will Edgcumbe Im­ages © Sup­plied

Go­ing out for din­ner has its ob­vi­ous ben­e­fits – the ro­mance, the va­ri­ety of amaz­ing dishes, not to men­tion be­ing able to en­joy a glass of wine with them. But breakfast is some­how more fun. Not only is it slightly more kid friendly if you have lit­tle ones, but there’s no pres­sure to dress up, you can drink all the cof­fee you want (or wine, if you don’t mind a few judg­men­tal looks), and when else can you have some­thing sweet to eat as a main meal?

The greater Dur­ban area is a fan­tas­tic choice for breakfast out­ings – it’s warm all year round, sun­rise hap­pens ap­pallingly early in sum­mer (so breakfast can feel a bit like lunch), and there is no short­age of great eater­ies on the beach, in the leafy ’burbs or at bustling mar­kets. Take your pick.

THE BIKE & BEAN DUR­BAN Dur­ban Coun­try Club Beach www.bike­be­an­dur­ban.com

+27 82 773 6870

Open from 06h00 to 18h00, The Bike & Bean Dur­ban pumps, par­tic­u­larly from about 08h00 to 10h00. They’ve kept things sim­ple with great sin­gle ori­gin African cof­fee and a small range of un­pre­ten­tious meals – ba­con and egg rolls, avo on toast, and toasted sand­wiches, as well as a se­lec­tion of cakes and muffins. Re­ally, you can’t beat one of their cap­puc­ci­nos and a “sarmie” as you sit at one of the ta­bles and look over the veg­e­tated dunes, beach and ocean. You may need to queue with the cy­clists, surfers, fam­i­lies, skate­board­ers and other lo­cals who flock to the café, but it’s to­tally worth it and the vibe is great. You can also rent a bi­cy­cle from the café if the idea of cy­cling up and down the prom­e­nade ap­peals to you. And why wouldn’t it?

CAFÉ JI­RAN

Be­laire Suites Ho­tel, Bat­tery Beach www.cafe­ji­ran.co.za

+27 31 332 4485

Not far down the prom­e­nade to­wards the main swim­ming beaches, Café Ji­ran has been serv­ing up some of Dur­ban’s finest cof­fee for years, and they take it very se­ri­ously. First thing in the morn­ing, what else is there that mat­ters? Set on the ground floor of the Be­laire Suites Ho­tel, just across the road from the prom­e­nade and a forested dune, Café Ji­ran serves pas­tries from 07h00 and then breakfast from 08h30 to 11h00. And whether you’re there for a quick bite or a long, drawn out af­fair, they have the meal for you. Their English breakfast is le­git, as are the grid­dled crum­pets served with wild berry com­pote, cream and honey.

THE GLEN­WOOD BAK­ERY

398 Es­ther Roberts Road, Glen­wood www.glen­wood­bak­ery.co.za

+27 31 205 0217

It’s hard to dis­agree with the as­ser­tion that The Glen­wood Bak­ery is the best bak­ery in the greater Dur­ban area. Ar­ti­sanal in the true sense of the word, the loaves of bread they pro­duce are all hand formed, slow fer­mented and baked in a hearth oven. You’ll want to get there early (the bak­ery opens at 06h00 daily) be­cause the lo­cals

sim­ply flock there to pick up their breads and pas­tries, and if you snooze you’ll def­i­nitely lose. Once there, or­der a fan­tas­tic cof­fee (we rec­om­mend the flat white) and see which pas­try you can pro­cure – their le­mon curd pas­try and the apri­cot and hazel­nut pas­try are both worth vis­it­ing for. They also do what may be the best Eggs Bene­dict in the coun­try.

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Makaranga Gar­den Lodge,

No. 1A Ig­wababa Road, Kloof www.makaranga.com / +27 31 764 6616

Head about 20 min­utes in­land from Dur­ban on the M13 and you’ll crest Fields Hill to en­ter the lush green sub­urb of Kloof. Part ho­tel, part restau­rant, part botan­i­cal gardens, it’s got to be one of the pret­ti­est spots in Dur­ban to en­joy a meal. NONNA, the on-site con­tem­po­rary restau­rant and deli, spills out onto a deck over­look­ing the gardens be­low. You can look at the menu if you like, but re­ally, why would you or­der any­thing but the ba­nana bread French toast with ba­con and honey? Af­ter breakfast, you’d be in­sane not to take a stroll through the 30-acre gar­den, with its mul­ti­tude of camel­lias, rhodo­den­drons, aza­leas, mag­no­lias, or­chids, bromeli­ads and cy­cads. It re­ally is a spec­tac­u­lar place to spend a few hours.

HONOURABLE MEN­TIONS

Of course, you could go to a dif­fer­ent place ev­ery day of the week for a top­notch breakfast. Surf Rid­ers Café (+27 31 825 8528) at Ad­ding­ton Beach is right on the prom­e­nade and the place to go when you have a mas­sive hunger. The Breakfast Works dish is gnarly – we’re talk­ing a sesame bun filled with two poached eggs, Gouda and chorizo gravy, baked in the pizza oven, and topped with hol­landaise sauce. Up in the Val­ley of a Thou­sand Hills, the Shong­weni Farm­ers & Craft Mar­ket (www.shon­g­wen­i­mar­ket.co.za / +27 31 777 4686) is held ev­ery Satur­day, and you’d need to go there ev­ery Satur­day for a year just to sam­ple all the food on of­fer. A firm favourite is the falafel wrap by Falafel Fundi; if you’re hun­gry af­ter this, there is no fill­ing you.

Up the coast on Chartwell Drive in Umh­langa, Vovo Telo (+27 31 561 6593) bus­tles ev­ery day. Say what you will about fran­chised restau­rants, but there’s a rea­son the lo­cals keep flock­ing back to Vovo Telo – their grid­dle stack breakfast (waf­fles lay­ered with ba­con, sautéed rocket, poached eggs and cheese sauce) will keep you go­ing all day. For the ul­ti­mate early morn­ing ex­pe­ri­ence, the breakfast buf­fet at The Oys­ter Box’s Ocean Ter­race restau­rant (+27 31 514 5000) is about as lav­ish as things get – think cham­pagne, oys­ters, a mas­sive Con­ti­nen­tal se­lec­tion, pan­cake and waf­fle sta­tion, and hot break­fasts to die for. We rec­om­mend the Welsh rarebit or whisky oats.

The Glen­wood Bak­ery

The Bike & Bean

Café Ji­ran

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The Shong­weni Farm­ers & Craft Mar­ket

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