A Trip to the Middle of Nowhere – Naries Namakwa Retreat
The Northern Cape is the largest province in South Africa, and so a trip to the land of vast desert, gemstones, and flowers is ideal for explorers looking to take to the open road, and who want the peace and quiet that only being in the middle of nowhere
At 07h00, my road trip companion and I set off on the N7 from Cape Town and began the six-hour drive to the Naries Namakwa Retreat in the Northern Cape.
The early morning brought mist that settled on the road and the farm lands along the N7. We passed Malmesbury, Koringberg, and several other small towns, before winding along Piekenierskloof Pass in Citrusdal and making a stop for some much-needed coffee. The service station, thankfully, was serving up Terbodore coffee, and there was also a farm stall suppling locally-made snacks for the road.
TEA COUNTRY
Citrusdal, at the base of the Cederberg, is a popular pit-stop on this route for many reasons. From a rooibos tea journey at the Carmién Bergendal Rooibos Farm, and pairing tea with wine at Hebron, to a trip down the mountain via the Piekenierskloof zipline for the more adventurously inclined, and relaxing in the natural hot pools of The Baths, this citrus city (city may be a tad strong a word for this dorpie) is well worth a stay.
But we needed to get back on the road. The view from the car windows began changing from uninterrupted expanses of farmland to rocky outcrops – and we knew we were in the Northern Cape. Because of the immense stretch of land which seems
largely uninhabited, it is easy to feel like you’re already in the middle of nowhere.
We stopped for lunch in Springbok. As is the case in most small towns, the main road is where everything is located when it comes to things to do. We stopped outside The Pot and Barrel Pub and Restaurant and ventured upstairs to a friendly welcome and ice cold Castle Lights. The menu includes favourites such as burgers and pizzas, but for those wanting a taste of the traditional, there’s a page dedicated to Namaqua specialities: afval [tripe], kidneys, pofadder [lamb’s liver in caul fat], and lamb hearts.
A ROCKY RETREAT
A short 20-minute drive took us to our destination, Naries Namakwa Retreat. Set in a 6,000 hectare estate, the accommodation options include en-suite rooms in the Manor House – where dinner and breakfast are served, and there is WiFi – two self-catering cottages, and three mountain suites.
We were in the latter, so we got back in our car and followed out guide to our cottage. Set next to the other two suites, but still far enough apart to ensure utmost privacy, the Mountain Suites are luxurious interpretations of traditional San huts. Inside, a well-stocked minibar ensures spectacular drinks for sundowners, the beds are laid with lush pillows and linen, and the en-suite bathroom includes a spacious bath decorated with petals and candles. Two loungers are set on the veranda, overlooking the vast and rocky, wild landscape. This is truly a place to relax in the stillness and beauty of nature.
Two loungers were set on the veranda, overlooking the vast and rocky, wild landscape. This is truly a place to relax in the stillness and beauty of nature.
Dinners at Naries consist of three courses of lovingly prepared international flavours. We enjoyed tomato gazpacho with a tot of vodka, BBQ sirloin steak with vegetables, and chocolate and coffee torte to finish it off on a sweet note. Each course has a suggested wine from the extensive wine list.
The estate has a number of hiking trails winding through it – from easy-paced 3 km paths, to trails of over 5 km through the wilderness. During our Quiver Tree hike our guide pointed out some of the natural splendours of the area, including April Fools – a red bud so called because it tricks people into thinking that the flower season has arrived early – as well some of the animals that call the estate home, including springbok and oryx, and a wealth of birdlife.
GETTING FREAKY
The next day we went back to Springbok to check out Springbok Lodge and Restaurant. We walked into a bookshop with an array of titles, most focusing on the natural habitat of the Northern Cape and Kalahari. Just past the books, shelves upon shelves of crystals entice visitors. It was easy to spend 30 minutes taking in all the colours of the gemstones before going into the restaurant section of the establishment. In the diner-style aesthetic, we ordered typical diner cuisine in the shape of burgers and shakes. Actually, make that “freakshakes”. This glorious concoction was served in a glass jar, in which chocolatey, ice-creamy goodness was twirled with chocolate syrup and crowned with a dollop of whipped cream, a Flake, and an Oreo.
Back at Naries – and after a few hours of rest to recover from the freakshakes – we went up to the view point for a picnic. The team at Naries put together a spread of epic proportions, with freshly baked olive bread, cheeses, kebabs, chickpea salad, veggie wraps, mini pizzas, pomegranate ice tea, and, to finish, crème brûlée. As we tucked into this feast, overlooking the expanse of natural rugged beauty before us, the sky turning from light blue to deep purple as the sun set, we revelled in the quiet and tranquillity that being in the middle of nowhere brings.
For more information on Naries Namakwa Retreat, visit www.naries.co.za.