MOUNT KENYA’S

MAGICAL FORCE

Mount Kenya has a magical force, towering over 5100 metres and looking down across the plains of Laikipia below. Kate Webster takes you to the mountain base and discovers the magic of the area.

climbing to 5,199 metres, Mount Kenya is the tallest mountain in Kenya and the second tallest mountain in Africa. A designated World Heritage Site, the scenery surrounding Mount Kenya is breath-taking. It is pristine wilderness with lakes, tarns, glaciers, dense forest, mineral springs and a selection of rare and endangered species of animals, high altitude adapted plains game and unique montane and alpine vegetation. Mount Kenya and nearby Laikipia is not necessarily the first place that comes to mind when planning a trip to Kenya. Famous for the wildlife safaris and cultural experiences of the Mara and beach areas in the north such as Watamu, Kenya’s hidden gem of Laikipia and Mount Kenya are often overlooked. A short 35 – 45-minute flight from the Kenyan capital of Nairobi will have you landing at Nanyuki airstrip in Laikipia. There are two other airstrips for scheduled safari flights into Laikipia, Loisaba and Lewa Downs; however, Nanyuki is the main airstrip. Upon arrival into Laikipia you will notice a country feel like non-other in Kenya. Formerly a patchwork of large ranches, and still an important livestock district, Laikipia is now where some of Kenya’s most encouraging conservation success stories are unfolding. To the north-east of the Great Rift Valley, and north-west of snow-capped Mount Kenya, the high plains of Laikipia are growing more popular as one of Kenya’s best safari regions. Much of the area here is managed to protect the wildlife, promote a personal and smallscale approach to adventurous and often luxurious safari tourism, and generate an income for the local Samburu and Ilaikipiak and Mokogodo Maasai communities. The area is beginning to challenge the Maa-

sai Mara for overall safari experience. A sanctuary for over 80 mammal species including black rhino, elephant, lion, leopard, Grevy Zebra, Reticulated Giraffe, aardwolf, wild dog and a wealth of African game, Laikipia’s biodiversity is globally unique. After Tsavo, Laikipia is Kenya’s most extensive wildlife haven, forming part of the much broader 56,000-km2 Ewaso Ecosystem. All of the ‘Big Five’ mammals can be found here, with the Ewaso elephant population healthy in numbers, half of all the endangered Black Rhinos found in Kenya in Laikipia and as many as 250 lions. The Ewaso Ecosystem hosts the largest populations left on earth of various other endangered mammals, including Grevy’s Zebra and Reticulated Giraffe, the only remaining viable population of Jackson’s Hartebeest, as well as an expanding population of the globally endangered African Wild Dog. Laikipia has a diverse range of tourism facilities for travellers of all varieties. There is a choice of small lodges, tented camps, ranch houses, community lodges and resorts/hotels. Based in natural wildlife areas, they focus on selling wilderness-based tourism. Currently, there are over 40 accommodation facilities in the Laikipia area, many of which have been awarded tourism awards both overseas and in Kenya. There is one property, however, that has long been a part of the landscape in Laikipia and called Mount Kenya, affectionately known as Laikipia’s Lady, its neighbour. Travelling some 30 minutes by vehicle south-east of the airport and you arrive at the famous Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club. It is here where the true value of Mount Kenya is discovered. Set with the backdrop of magnificent views of majestic Mount Kenya, the Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club Resort is set in over 100 acres of perfectly landscaped gardens. Then known as 'Mawingo', the Kiswahili name for 'the clouds' that so often skirt the slopes of Mt Kenya, it was born of a love affair, and one that had all the ingredients of an epic romance - a stunning older woman, a dashing aviator and, for their playground, all of Africa. It started as a home and over the years the property changed hands a few times. It wasn’t until 1948 when Mawingo was bought by Abraham Block that the house was extended and turned into an Inn. In 1959, the film star William Holden stayed there with his friends Ray Ryan and Carl Hirschmann. Succumbing to Mawingo's charm, they bought the property and turned it into the 'The Mt Kenya Safari Club'. The exclusive retreat has a reputation for relaxed elegance and comes with quite the intriguing history. Several to the world's most famous names, be they royalty, film stars or merely the rich, have graced the walkways at this secluded haven, boasting an appeal of safari gear during the day and smart dress for dinner. The Club opened in 1959 and the list of who joined reads like an international ''Who's Who'', including Sir Winston Churchill, who was reputed to have been a founder Member, Prince Berhard of the Netherlands, Lord Louis Mountbatten, author Robert Ruark, former US President Lyndon Johnson, Conrad Hilton, Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, and a bevy of celebrities. The lustrous allure of the Club has never faded, with more recent members to include His Royal Highness the Aga Khan, President El Haj Omar Bongo of Gabon, President Gafaar Numeiri of the Sudan,

Members of the Saudi Arabian Royal family, KRH Prince Mohammad Bin Fahd Bin Abdul Aziz and Mrs Anwar Sadat. Fairmont Hotels & Resorts renovated and upgraded the Club and its luxury Mount Kenya accommodations in 2009; however, maintained its rich history and ambiance of a hunting club. The prestigious main structure reflects the 1950’s colonial architectural design with a luxury country club feel, complemented with independent quaint cottages, including William Holden’s original cottage. Nestled in the lush foothills of Mount Kenya, the Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club’s history is as rich and evocative as the surrounding landscape. Guests wake with the sun rising over Mount Kenya and can revel in the glorious mountain scenery from the Club’s grounds. The place holds a certain magic, felt radiating down from the mountain. This magical force is whispered from the staff who work at the Club. Aptly named the local ‘Mountain Whisperer’, Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club employee Joseph Kanyiri explains "the Mountain says no man cries". Maybe this is his way of ensuring all guests are enjoying their time there, but from serving coffees at breakfast and wine with your dinner at night, Mr Kanyiri will bring the mountain into every conversation he has. The food the guests eat, blessed by the mountain; the glorious sunshine for the day, a result of the mountain; the happiness in the company of guests, also a gift from the mountain, according to Mr Kanyiri. It is no wonder he feels this way, having worked at the Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club and viewing Mount Kenya on a regular basis. Mr Kanyiri has a history to tell of this mountain, as intriguing as that of the very Club he works for. Mr Kanyiri explains the peaks of Mount Kenya, when viewed from a distance resembled the black and white plumage of the male ostrich. The black and white formations were actually rocks and glaciers on the peak area, hence it was named the mountain “Kirinyaga”, which in translation means – “the area of the ostrich”. Legend has it the ancient Kikuyu and Kamba tribesmen used the name “Kirinyaga” to derive the term for their god – Mwene Nyaga – signifying the god who stayed at the top of Mount Kenya. The Kikuyu believe that Mount Kenya is a sacred place and they turn towards the direction of the mountain while praying or offering sacrifices. The Kambas pronounced it slightly differently, calling it “Kinyaa”. As the Kamba’s were the first people to encounter the European explorers, the Europeans used the Kamba version to name the mountain, calling it Mount Kenya. The country was later named after the mountain. For those who are not satisfied to merely view the magnificent Mount Kenya in all her glory from their place at Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club and seek to conquer the mountain, they can then embark on one of the most scenic treks in Africa. Known as a climber’s mountain and a trekker’s mountain, Mt Kenya is riddled

with pioneering history, with some of the most amazing stories in mountaineering to date. Possibly one of the most famous stories is that of ‘No picnic on Mount Kenya’, the scene of the famous Italian prisoners of war who escaped to attempt to summit Point Batian in hot pursuit from their capturers. Since then, many mountaineering legends have come to establish themselves on Mt Kenya, including Halford Mackinder, Eric Shipton and Arthur Firmin. Modern day legends such as Ian Howell and Ian Allen also stake their claim, establishing many of the technical routes on Batian (5,199m) and Nelion (5,188m). Howell Hut was built by Ian Howell who solo climbed Point Nelion 13 times to establish the hut on the summit; this hut is still used today by many trekkers. Mount Kenya continues to draw travellers from near and far to experience her magic and generally offers a year-round season to visit. The weather remains pleasant at any time of year, with the average daytime high temperatures range from 68 F (20 C) in July and August to 80 F (27 C) degrees in January and February. After the sunset, temperatures can drop to 45 F (7 C) to 52 F (11 C) degrees with slightly cooler nights during December to February. The one climatic condition that has the greatest impact on your trip to Mount Kenya Park is rainfall. Like other locations in Kenya, the park experiences two dry seasons and two rainy seasons, and the presence or absence of rain will influence wildlife and activity experiences. The long dry season occurs from the end of July to October, followed by a short rainy season in November and December. January through February is the short-dry season, and conditions are similar to the long dry season with the exception of being hotter and more humid months. In the last weeks of March, though, the weather takes a much more dramatic turn. From the end of March until May and most parts of June, the rains can fall for a few days at a time, but not all day, and the skies are mostly overcast with occasional sunshine.

Set with the backdrop of magnificent views of majestic Mount Kenya, the Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club Resort is set in over 100 acres of perfectly landscaped gardens.