SPECIAL DIY SECTION

Sure, you don’t have to make anything anymore, what with 3D printing, apps that instantly hire handymen and online stores that sell nearly everything. But then you’d miss out on one of the greatest joys of being human: the satisfaction that comes with standing back, wiping the sweat from your brow, and admiring something you created out of nothing. Whether it’s as ambitious as a 2 000-kilogram telescope (page 62) or as simple as a lamp made out of an old whisky bottle (page 67), go out and build something. That rush of pride you get when you use something you made yourself just doesn’t come with one-click shopping.

1. On flat ground, lay one block with the holes facing out. 2. Stand another block vertically against the end of that first block.

3. Form an H-shape with the brick and pavers on top of the first block. The brick standing on end should be the same height as the pavers standing on their sides. (Approximately 20 centimetres for standard bricks.)

4. Stack the final block on top of the H-shape. 5. Build your fire in the top hole nearest the vertical block.

1.

Crosscut supports for the seat back and seat. Bore holes for bolts and screws as shown. Spread glue at connection points between the supports, then bolt together to form the frame. Apply stain.

2.

Crosscut seat slats, arms, arm supports, front rail and bottom support. Apply stain on all surfaces.

3.

Fasten seat slats, arm supports, arms and bottom support as shown.

4.

Mount the ceiling supports on rafters or floor joists above your swing. Depending on the amount of weight you want your swing to support, you can use lag screws and swing swivels screwed vertically into the joists. But for optimal safety, we recommend through-bolting to 50 x 150 blocking. Over time, a lag screw can loosen. A through-bolted connection never will.

5.

Install swing hangers and mounting hardware on the swing as shown. To estimate your chain length, test-hang the swing using rope.

6.

Take the swing down, cut the chain to length and install.

1.

Remove the control panel (speed-control buttons) and motor (in its mounting bracket) from the blender. Keep track of any disconnected wires and save the fasteners that held the motor in place. Use a coping saw or a hot knife to cut out the faceplate for the control panel.

2.

Cut four 250-mm lengths of timber. On one piece, trace and cut out the shape of the control panel. On another, drill a hole large enough to fit the power cord; then drill additional holes for ventilation.

3.

The control panel is often wider than the faceplate, so cut a piece of laminate to put between the controls and faceplate. Mount both in the control-panel hole. Use wood glue and finishing nails to assemble the four pieces of timber into a box.

4.

Determine the size of the motor and sanding-drum shaft, then attach them with a screw-on shaft coupler of appropriate size. For added strength, put a little epoxy on each shaft.

5.

Cut a 400 x 400 piece from the 20-mm plywood and drill a 50-mm hole on centre for the sanding drum to protrude through. Hold the motor/sander assembly in position and measure the distance from the motormounting bracket to the plywood. Cut wood spacers to this size and attach them to the plywood.

6.

Use the original mounting hardware to mount the motor on the spacers, making sure the sander is centred in the 50-mm hole. Reconnect all wiring, securing loose or hanging wires to the side of the box, where they won’t interfere with the motor. Glue the plywood top to the wooden box.