Saigon, more shabby than chic
was also at one time associated with the Kloof Street, Cape Town, institution – was sold in 2010. Most of the staff appear to have stayed and, besides the massage parlour opened downstairs, not much more than a change of ownership has taken place.
Sticking to a winning formula should work, but in this case it’s in need of a revamp. For what was once cutting-edge design – a large interior fish pond, an impressive fish tank, gilded Buddha statues, bamboo, black lacquered furnishings and other Asian touches – hasn’t aged well. And the solitary fish in the large tank simply depresses.
Service levels have slipped
PICTURE: COLLEEN PROPPE somewhat. At our table, it started with a dirty glass. When informed, the waitress appeared worryingly sceptical about the state of cleanliness, first carrying it to the bar, then sauntering over to the kitchen and seemingly weighing up whether or not to place it at a far table. She didn’t, but we weren’t exactly encouraged. There were no serviettes at the tables, and condiments took too long to arrive. Service should be cranked up, particularly on quiet days.
Although I haven’t dined at Saigon in years it seems little has changed, barring prices and a new section devoted to the pangasius fish. Dishes popular 10 years ago are all there: the wok beef; the tom yum soup; red, yellow and green curries; prawn toast; hot plates (which I despise – the fat spatters everywhere, on your skin and clothes); and set menu options, though our orders lacked the freshness for which they were once known.
My tom yum goong (R60), the clear spicy and sour soup, was lacking in punchy fresh flavour and, surprisingly, fresh herbs. Same with the one-dimensional green curry – again, it needed a good helping of fresh herbs and fish sauce. My partner’s prawn crystal spring rolls (R51), expertly rolled, were good, but could have had more fresh herbs for flavour. His wok beef (R129) was as it has always been: tender, gently caramelised on the edges, and very tasty. We shared a bowl of their fluffy, fragrant garlic-fried rice.
The wine list seems to be much the same, with the same thin selection of fragrant white wines, which are better suited to Asian cuisine than, say, the Chocolate Block, and nothing fabulous by the glass, except a few interesting cocktails.
It’s time for a revamp – and a good clean-up at Saigon, especially of the grotty staircase, which looks dreadful in the daylight. It’s a pity the restaurant has slipped, although with a bit more energy it could return to its heyday. I’ll be waiting.