The world is giving pinotage another chance. Finally
FOR the longest time the wine world looked down on pinotage. Like chardonnay and rosé, pinotage just couldn’t catch a break, which must have been heartbreaking for South African wine producers.
Pinotage is a grape that is a cross between pinot noir and cinsault (Hermitage) and was created in 1925 by Abraham Izak Perold, who was the Professor of Viticulture at the University of Stellenbosch.
Chris Theron then took the pinotage experiment to the next level and planted it commercially in the 1940s in the Bellevue, Kanonkop, Meerendal and Uiterwyk vineyards, which then led to the first commercially produced pinotage harvest in 1959.
It wasn’t received well. And people are still very much wary of our pinotage.
There’s even an interesting quote from “Wine Grapes”, written by oenophiles Jancis Robinson,
Julia Harding and José Vouillamoz: “Pinotage is either South Africa’s signature red variety or its worst vinous ambassador.”
Ouch.
Pinotage has been accused of tasting like burnt rubber tyres, a tin of baked beans, spray-paint and banana. The worst is probably being likened to nail polish remover.
But the tide seems to be turning and this is because wine producers now know how to properly handle pinotage and get the grape to reach its full potential. The wine is building a reputation for its bold flavours and notes of ripe berries.
Marco Ventrella, KWV’S viticulturist says that pinotage is a tricky wine to make well, and in the past, it has had a bad reputation-this, however, has changed. “Winemakers today have focused on reducing the crop yields and now use careful winemaking techniques to manage this unique grape.”
It’s something that Jolette Steyn, the head of fine wine sales at wine merchant Wine Cellar, has also come to notice – how South African’s passion for pinotage and newfound pride in it has invigorated the wine world and renewed the interest.
“During the past decade or so, our growers and winemakers have gained a better understanding of pinotage – its likes and dislikes and where it expresses itself the best. They can thus better manage it in the vineyard and the cellar to produce elegant and nuanced pinotage wines in a variety of styles. Furthermore, we have some beautiful older pinotage plantings which adds to the complexity of the wines.”
Pinotage is now grown in many other wine-producing countries, including Australia, California, New Zealand, and the UK.
There have also been a number of wine organisations and awards that have celebrated pinotage over the years, showing that the world is finally giving it a second chance. And so should you.
According to the latest statistics by the SA Wine Industry Information and Systems (SAWIS, 2016), pinotage is the only red cultivar to have grown in hectares over the past decade and of the top 10 most planted wine grape varieties in the country.
Pinotage sales in South Africa’s two biggest export markets, the UK and Germany, have grown from
3.5 million and 0.8 million litres in 2001 to more than 5 million and 5.4 million litres respectively, with 2017 sales to China and Russia (2.6 million and 1.5 million litres) now greater than those of other stand-out markets including Sweden, the US, France and Denmark.
The best way to enjoy wine, we believe, is with great food and the nice thing about pinotage is that it is perfect with South African cuisine. Any good wine should be food friendly, especially as the traditional “rules” of red with meat, white with fish have been debunked. A truly food-friendly wine plays nicely with a wide variety of foods, from sweet to savoury to spicy, from meat to fish to veggies - not a unicorn wine for a “perfect pairing” with a specific dish.
Pinotage is that wine. Many sommeliers have suggested that the wine goes well with samp and beans with beef tongue, Cape Malay curry, red meat or game, which Steyn confirms.
“Pinotage stands up well to hearty meats – beef or game – regular cuts or tripe – on a braai, in a potjie or part of a stew. It complements rich game fowl wonderfully – ostrich, guinea fowl or duck. Even spicy foods, fatal to most reds, such as meat or vegetarian curries and spicy chicken wings, are excellent food partners to pinotage.”
For vegetable lovers, the wine works with brinjal, mushrooms and dark, leafy greens.
Cellar Master at Durbanville
Hills, Martin Moore, says the Pinotage grape often inspires him to experiment with various dishes as the grape’s versatility allows it to be paired with anything from barbecued meat to decadent desserts. Martin recommends pairing your Pinotage with this mouthwatering marinated chops recipe. | Lifestyle Reporter
MARINATED CHOPS Serves 6
Ingredients
6 large lamb chops (you can also use pork chops)
Curry marinade:
1 large onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, bruised with the side of a knife
30 ml cooking oil
15ml mild curry powder (any generic brand will do)
5ml ground coriander
5ml turmeric
5ml fresh ginger, peeled & chopped 375ml water
50ml grape vinegar
25ml smooth apricot jam
2 bay leaves
Method
In a saucepan, fry the onion and garlic in the oil until soft.
Reduce heat and add the curry powder, spices and ginger; fry lightly for 2 minutes.
Add water, vinegar, jam and bay leaves, and simmer for 2 minutes.
Trim the chops of excess fat and arrange in a glass bowl.
Cover with the mixture and marinate uncovered for a day, turning over occasionally.
Braai the chops over hot coals and heat any leftover marinade to serve as a sauce.