What the Baobabs Saw
Asmall teardrop-shaped island floats in the middle of the mighty Zambezi River, with Zambia on its right shoulder and Zimbabwe on its left. Only 40 km upstream from the majestic Victoria Falls, the river here seems to take a deep breath as it meanders slowly past before it begins its sprint to its inevitable plummet over the edge of the falls. Monkeys jump between black ebony trees, mangosteens and yellowwoods, while five statuesque baobabs tower over them all. These trees must have a world of stories etched into their bark, having watched time go by for centuries – including an exiled Zambian king and his wife who were the island’s original human inhabitants and who gave it its name, Tsowa, which means “new beginnings”. It sounds like something out of a fairy-tale, but Tsowa Island is very real – and, best of all, you don’t even need to be royalty to enjoy everything that its secluded tranquillity has to offer.
Who hasn’t dreamed of escaping to their own private island at one point or another? Isibindi Africa Lodges' recently opened Tsowa Safari Island now gives you the chance to do just that – and in a location that feels about as removed from civilization as you can get. Even getting here feels like an adventure, made all the more delicious by the knowledge that the vast majority of the tourists bustling around you at Victoria Falls Airport do not have the map to it.
A long, straight road takes you away from town and with both sides bordered by bush, you can already keep an eye out for antelope, monkeys, and even an ellie or two. After about 45 minutes, you’ll pull over – in a spot differentiated from the rest of the road only by the game-drive vehicle waiting patiently for you, and a dirt track disappearing behind it off into the distance. The road takes you through the Zambezi National Park, where bird-filled trees, giraffe and warthogs welcome your arrival. During my visit, the annual rains had yet to start, and so the landscape was painted in a palette of brown, red, yellow and muted red, making my first sighting of the deep blue of the mighty Zambezi River all the more spectacular. A Twinkling Arrival
We were welcomed by the friendly smile of Fresh Muchero, our boat captain. After helping us aboard his little skiff, he expertly navigated us around the rapids of the river, taking us ever closer to the inviting greencloaked island on the other side. This crossing is made all the more appealing
should you arrive at dusk, as twinkling lanterns hanging from the trees and dotted along the paths show you the way home. As we pulled into the little sandy alcove, we were met by the equally twinkling smiles of Tsowa Island’s small team of staff, who imbibe this beautiful island with warmth, hospitality and that kind of homely feeling one doesn’t often experience in exclusive lodgings.
The team is expertly led by their inimitable manager, Francie Luxton Sherren, who they all call “amai” (or mother) – an apt moniker because she serves as a seemingly unflappable matriarch, and also a wonderfully warm welcoming presence to all guests. Eco-conscious Comfort
Every effort has been made to ensure that the lodge leaves as small an ecological footprint as possible, with wood and canvas being the main chosen building materials. The communal area includes a dining area, lounge, bar, fire pit and an expansive deck shaded by large jackalberry trees. From here, you have a perfect view of the river, as well as of the locals – hippos and crocodiles, not to mention a host of birdlife, including a variety of kingfisher species. As my guide, Vusi Nyoni, walked me back to my tent after my first evening game drive, we were blessed with the sighting of an owl in one of the trees