Sowetan

Hatejackin­g in fashion world to appropriat­e brands

- Thango Ntwasa

What do Coca-Cola and Adolf Hitler have in common?

The swastika of course. Prior to becoming the image for Hitler’s Nazis, the swastika was loved across the world with thousands of iterations that existed in décor, fashion and the Sanskrit language as an idol for well-being.

As the Western world consumed more informatio­n about the different worlds where the symbol originates, it popped up on designs and consumable products like fruit packages and Coke.

In all its iterations, the logo has sustained a positive meaning that has never been menacing.

There are a number of reasons why Hitler saw fit to use the symbol with slight difference­s but it was also birthed in the belief at the time of similariti­es between Sanskrit and German. This changed the way we all view the symbol today, even to the extremes of demonising anyone who dares wear it or use it artistical­ly.

While this was a hijacking of the symbol, today’s similar approach is known as hatejackin­g. This refers to the use of a fashion item that becomes attributed to a particular group and their often hateful intentions. A uniform if you will.

A brand that felt this particular rebrand was New Balance. In 2016, the company’s head of public affairs told the Wall Street Journal he was excited for Trump’s trade plans, which resulted in those opposing the former American president to burn their own pairs.

Over the years, the brand has been coddled by right wing extremists who support Trump and felt it necessary to adopt the shoe as part of their identity. This has now tainted the brand’s name even further to the point where it has had to release press statements that distance itself from the toxicity of its new-found fans.

A number of factors can play a role into extremist groups behaving this way. As their beliefs are admonished and called out, they retaliate by playing the victim card which is further assisted by their ability to use clothing brands and other products as identifier­s to create a united front.

In a sort of influencer-inspired tactic, this helps them appeal to a number of people. From those who agree with their sentiments to those who just like the brands that become associated with their ideologies.

You are more likely to hate an extremist racist in Klu Klux Klan regalia than a random racist guy in Abercombie & Fitch clothes.

But there also exists other versions of this; as more black people earn incredible wealth they are able to access spaces and things they otherwise would not have been able to. This includes brands like Gucci and Michael Kors whose iconic colour schemes and monograms have become synonymous with new-money aesthetics – people who waste wealth and don’t know good style.

This plays a role in gate keeping the image of people who express themselves through the different brands they associate with.

On the flip side, some brands have even turned a negative image by using the status they have to churn a good image. A slew of stylists swore off using Dolce & Gabbana after the designer pair was accused of a number of hateful content. This was made worse when their fashion show in China was cancelled for unsavoury advertisin­g material and commentary that was racist towards Asians.

To combat this backlash and disinteres­t from the public, the duo started dressing stars who needed to make a name for themselves and working with smaller conglomera­tes to earn public interest.

In a country like SA where diversity is meant to be celebrated, these issues create the risk of solidifyin­g divides.

From camping, to beaches for holidays and even the channels we watch on our television­s, there is little space left for consumers to get sympathy when racial discrimina­tion is experience­d.

Something that continues to plague mythical worlds in film to this day with the likes of the Lord of the Rings prequel and The Little Mermaid remake where the existence of black characters has deeply irked white fans.

Allowing extremists to take over media and consumable products runs the risk of eliminatin­g black people who participat­e in these spaces. Especially in cases where they were already struggling to feel identified by the dominant groups.

There is a great benefit in reaping rewards from racist fans but there exists a great risk for local brands who would be more than willing to embrace a dedicated fan base that is willing to use their products as a hate machine.

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 ?? /EPSILON/GETTY IMAGES/KRISTINA NIKISHINA ?? Stefano Gabbana, Monica Bellucci and Domenico Dolce in Moscow, Russia.
/EPSILON/GETTY IMAGES/KRISTINA NIKISHINA Stefano Gabbana, Monica Bellucci and Domenico Dolce in Moscow, Russia.

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