BUBBLY ITALIAN
R ecession may have curbed spending on celebratory champagne, but demand for prosecco, a light-bodied, fruity sparkling wine from Italy’s Veneto region, has seen annual production increase from five million bottles in the 1970s to a projected 240 million within the next couple of years (www.just-drinks.com).
Where prosecco was previously sniffed at as ersatz champagne, locals are now so protective of their fizz that the government has appointed a “prosecco policeman”, Andrea Battistella, to inspect restaurants and bars. Anyone found serving cheap imitations in a carafe or on tap, rather than in a bottle sporting a certifying denominazione di origine controllata label, faces a fine of à20 000.
Unlike much of the world’s bubbly, including Méthode Cap Classique, prosecco doesn’t aim to emulate champagne. It is produced using the Charmat or tank method, which means the base wine undergoes a second fermentation in pressurised tanks rather than in bottles. Not only is this cheaper and less time-consuming, it avoids those toasty, biscuity, buttery flavours associated with champagne or MCC.
“It is lighter in texture, softer on the palate with larger bubbles, and usually lower in alcohol than MCC,” says Woolworths wine selector Allan Mullins, reporting strong sales of the Dolce Vita Prosecco at R75 a bottle.
“Prosecco is more flowery and fruity, which also makes it more approachable,” reckons Lorenzo Gabba of Italian wine importer Gabba International (www.vino.co.za), which imports the Teresa Rizzi Prosecco Brut (R169 at selected Pick n Pay stores in the Western Cape). “It’s made by Gruppo Italiano Vini, which is kind of like the KWV of Italy but much bigger, so they have first pick of the top grapes, guaranteeing consistently high quality.”
Where MCC is typically enjoyed as an aperitif, or for toasting special occasions, prosecco is very much intended for everyday drinking. “It is also much more versatile with food than MCC,” says Gabba. “This isn’t surprising when you consider how passionate the Italians are about food.”
He particularly recommends drinking the Teresa Rizzi with fish. “Or you just can go home, kick off your shoes and have a glass — it really is a lovely product.”