When you need to satisfy a craving for real bread, this is the place to go, writes
on-Banting Joburgers are very glad the Cape chain of Knead bakeries has arrived in Gauteng, with its refreshing café-style diners that are still posh enough for the Michelangelo Towers.
A bun scented with fennel is the only place a veggie burger (with patty made of beetroot and feta) could go, while chicken breast found its ideal home in crisp, airy, chewy ciabatta. Sandwiches cost in the region of R65 and come with garnish of freshly made mustard mayonnaise, chargrilled onion, cucumber pickle, sweet red onion, sliced tomato and rocket.
The popular cafés are the babies of Evan Faull, grandson of Lesley Faull who started the famous Silwood Kitchen chef school in Cape Town.
Evan is all about bread. Ciabatta is one of his favourites, but Knead also sells loaves made of sourdough (R20), rye (R30) and for those who worry, a low-carb bread for R65, made with coconut flour, psyllium and xylitol. The rest of us could go for a shiny, buttery croissant (R14) or the almond and dipped-chocolate variety. Or triple chocolate biscuits darkly brimming with the good stuff.
The food is wholesome and rustic, but presented in a modern and healthy fashion. Tuna melts, open toasties and sarmies are unpretentious but lean towards sophistication with their artisanal ingredients. Even bunny chow gets the gourmet treatment with a rich butter chicken filling.
There are wood-oven pizzas, brioche French toast, a three-bean-and-mushroom burger, and pork belly rolls (R125). Don’t expect a particular style of food, but a range of salads, tapas boards, pastas, pizzas, soups and sandwiches.
The decor is fresh, dominated by bare wood. On weekdays Knead suits the working-lunch crowd; on weekends it is family friendly. If you love hearing coffee beans being ground or watching fresh, puffy pizzas being pulled out the oven, then sit inside. Ask for a space outside in the foyer for a quieter lunch. And if you really have to resist the bread, they will squeeze and press anything in the kitchen for a juice, said Sicelo, one of the hospitable servers. ...................................................... Michelangelo Towers, Sandton. 011 884 9449 kneadbakery.co.za