SMOOTH TIMES IN WHISKEY VILLAGE

sea. These stones were formed either by the geological processes within an ancient volcano or, as locals would prefer to have it, the giants of legend who stomped the coastline, raging battles of gargantuan extremes.

The story goes that the Irish giant, Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn MacCool), from the Fenian Cycle of Gaelic mythology, was challenged to a fight by the Scottish giant, Benandonner. Fionn accepted the challenge and built the causeway across the North Channel so that the two giants could meet.

The magic and mystery surrounding this legend permeate the village of Bushmills with its quaint buildings and weathered locals. The River Bush meanders through the town and provides a frequent, joyful sight of leaping salmon. The village’s two celebrated culinary products are honoured annually in the town’s Salmon and Whiskey Festival.

The oldest tavern in the village (1803) is named after the legendary Finn MacCool and it was to here that we retired to sample some rather larger servings of the local brew. There, we caused more of a stir as we shared a bag of dulse. Dulse is a vitamin-rich, reddish-purple seaweed, salty and tangy, that is harvested locally. It’s a popular snack in Northern Ireland.

The tavern was chock-a-block with tourists, all of whom took great interest in our curious choice of pub grub.

“It’s good for you,” encouraged my uncle, with whiskey-laced bonhomie, generously handing out straggly portions to all and sundry. We laughed as German, US, Dutch and Scottish tastebuds were assaulted by the strong, briny flavour; faces twisted in surprise and a few equally salty comments were uttered. Dulse is definitely an acquired taste.

Bushmills is a great wee town that fairly buzzes with laughter and chatter. So great, in fact, that a few weeks after our visit our hostrelatives bought a house there — true story! — © Georgina Hatch

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