Bikes on trains
After a cycling trip along the Danube, Martin Briggs finds a spare set of wheels can complicate matters completely
IGNORING the warnings of possible terror attacks in Europe last year, we set off in August on a cycle tour along the Danube. Refugees were crossing the Mediterranean to Italy, from where they were travelling through Austria, Germany and France to (they hoped) enter Great Britain — on the very same route we would be taking by rail after our cycle tour down the Danube.
Would our bicycles and camping equipment be subject to scrutiny?
Our ferry ride to Caen in Normandy and train trip to Strasbourg in Alsace proved to be uneventful.
On our cycle tour the year before, we had found the modernised train station at Strasbourg had a helpful Boutique SNCF, providing comprehensive train information. The Gare de Strasbourg has undergone dramatic improvements with the simple addition of a striking glass enclosure.
This giant canopy of curved glass covers the 1880s facade of the station, giving it the look of a dazzling jewel from the outside. After securing a room for the night on the Place de la Gare, we returned to the station to plan our rail trip from Salzburg in Austria back to Caen. We needed a train that could carry our bicycles without our having to dismantle them.
The young lady in the Boutique SNCF spoke fluent English. But she was unsure about train travel with bicycles in Germany and Austria, and needed to phone the relevant authorities. Happy to explore the fairytale canals of Strasbourg, we agreed to return the next day.
Utilising Intercity trains (as opposed to super-fast TGV trains), our kind travel consultant plotted a route that allowed us to avoid dismantling the bicycles. With these coveted tickets, we set off to Donaueschingen, the source of the Danube in southwestern Germany.
After a memorable tour along the Donauradweg (Danube Bike Path) and an action-packed weekend in splendid Salzburg, we felt confident of an uneventful train trip to Caen, even though this 12-hour journey involved no fewer than five train changes — including one that involved cycling through central Paris from the Gare de l’Est to Gare SaintLazare.
We settled into our comfortable seats, secure in the knowledge that our agent had also procured the Farradkarte (bicycle tickets required in Germany) and these had been correctly attached to the handle-bars. Although police entered the carriages at each stop to search the aisles and toilets, we appeared to be accepted as being off the suspect list.
As we reminded ourselves of German engineering precision, the train came to an unscheduled stop — a malfunctioning engine. This delay could result in a reschedule of our onward route from Paris, which would be no easy task with the bicycles.
An hour later, we were relieved to be on our way. Fields and stations flashed by. We drew up at a seemingly familiar station name. We stumbled to retrieve our bicycles and alighted to the platform.
“Here, hold this pannier,” and “Mind out the train is taking off!” “Phew! Where are those tickets? When’s the next train?” Oh no, we had alighted at the wrong station!
With no porters, conductors, or buildings in sight we decided to board the next train and hope for the best. Fortunately, this train had a friendly conductor who assured us we would still reach Paris on time. Our faith, however, was shortlived as the train came to a halt alongside an open field.
Anxious passengers surrounded our helpful conductor, demanding explanations and arrangements for onward connections. Eventually he was free to communicate the sad news: an attempted suicide. At least, he said, the person had only been injured; a death would have resulted in a far longer delay.
Abandoning all hope of reaching our connection in Paris, we settled back in our seats while others continued to badger the conductor.
After the throng had departed, he came to compliment us on being the least demanding of all his passengers. He duly perused our fistful of tickets for the various upcoming trains, seats and bicycle spaces.
No, it was not possible to cycle from l’Est to Saint-Lazare in time, but he would personally escort us to the relevant office. He ensured that, with a reissued fistful of tickets, we did arrive in Caen in time to board our ferry.
Would we travel on European trains again? Yes, but with bottled water and spare rations!
Share your travel experiences with us in ‘Readers’ World’. Send your photos — at least 500KB — and a story of no more than 800 words. Note that stories should not have been published in print or online. ALL winners receive R1 000. Only winning entrants will be contacted. E-mail
With no conductor or building in sight we decided to board the next train