Sunday Times

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RECENTLY turned 40 and what better way to celebrate than spend four days exploring and enjoying the most beautiful city in the Milky Way? It had always been a dream and finally my passport carried the stamps: São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.

Known as the carnival city of the world — in February it welcomes more than two million festivalgo­ers a day over five days — Rio is much more than just samba dancers, halfnaked women with flamboyant costumes on parade floats and caipirinha cocktails.

It is a bustling city that offers something distinctly unique. For me, it was a well-deserved break from an intense year of chasing deadlines and reporting on President Jacob Zuma’s friends, the infamous Guptas and the state of capture.

After a 10-hour flight from OR Tambo Internatio­nal Airport on LATAM Airlines, we were ready for an unforgetta­ble adventure that included beautiful scenery, long golden beaches, five-star luxury, nature at its best and a never-ending supply of delicious food. And cocktails.

It’s the stuff holiday dreams are made off.

Our stay at the Belmond Copacabana Palace started with a welcome gift — a pair of white Havaianas, into which I immediatel­y slipped to relax my tired feet. Hotel communicat­ions manager Cassiano Vitorino smiled: “Just what your feet need after your long flight.”

The Belmond Copacabana Palace stands graciously over South America’s most iconic beaches. I’m in awe as Vitorino guides us through the hotel, which once hosted our beloved Nelson Mandela and has a hall of fame where pictures of other past visitors — the likes of Richard Gere, Liza Minnelli, Mick Jagger, Michael Schumacher and Nat King Cole — adorn the walls.

Built in 1923, the hotel has 241 rooms, with the sixth floor housing seven suites with private swimming pools, tended at all times by a butler. Vitorino tells us Madonna, Coldplay, Johnny Depp, Kate Moss and Guns ’N Roses have all stayed here.

We were whisked off to lunch at one of the hotel’s three restaurant­s, which overlooked a sparkling pool.

After a welcome glass of Bellini champagne and lunch consisting of ox tongue with a twist and the most divine homemade pasta, we were ready to explore Rio.

First up was a trip to Sugarloaf — a peak that rises 396m and presents a bird’s-eye view of Rio. More than a million tourists visit Sugarloaf every year and make use of the two cable cars.

It offers jaw-dropping views of the ocean and we were treated to the most spectacula­r scenery and sunset. The chilled caipirinha was a welcome relief for those who were sensitive to heights.

After this adventure, we were ready for a culinary experience. Anna Nagy, of Walpax Brazil Travel Partners, treated us to a Brazilian barbecue at Churrascar­ia Palace, close to the Copacabana Hotel.

Nagy had warned us not to be shy to say “no”, but it was only as waiters made frequent rounds with the most succulent prime-cut roast meats that we understood her warning.

The restaurant is highly popular and is unlike anything we have in South Africa. From strawberry­infused sushi to spare ribs, prawns and oysters, it was a food-lover’s heaven. I’m salivating just at the thought of the menu.

Over the next few days, I discovered that Rio’s cuisine is very unpretenti­ous. Cariocas, as the locals are called, indulge in their food in crowded bars and on busy street corners, with specialiti­es including feijoada (bean-and-meat stew).

Nagy told us that feijoada served with rice was a Saturday special in most homes and when families got together. The dish traces its origins to the food given to slaves on sugar and coffee plantation­s, but it is fit for a king.

Another favourite I discovered was pão de queijo (cheese bread/ rolls). These were served as part of the hotel’s breakfast buffet and found their way onto my plate most mornings.

I loved the fresh produce markets. There you can find anything

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