W

E do eat with our eyes, but how much can a breathtaking view add to your meal? A fair amount, were my thoughts after dinner at MAReSOL on the V&A Waterfront. A new option in a spot that is in one of the fairest cities in the world, but which, sadly, is not plentiful in restaurant choices. The city might boast some of the best cuisine in South Africa, and the world, but the Waterfront is a collection of nice, not fabulous, chain offerings.

The “see” food at MAReSOL is amazing. A short staircase up to the restaurant and you have a 360 degree view of sun, mountain, sea or the busy V&A. Sit at a window in open, airy surroundings to take it all in. The wine is good. The seafood was grand. What was not, were the chicken offerings, which is a pity for a Portuguese restaurant with a chef said to be sharing family recipes.

Wings and livers were part of our starter option. The chicken could have done with a thorough marinading in the lovely, home-made peri-peri sauce served on the side, or at the least a brush over. We South Africans like our Portuguese food with a Mozambican influence. The livers were tough and unremarkable except for their unappetising appearance.

If we were eating with our eyes, meh. Luckily the view was distracting, approaching sunset. What was perfectly Portuguese were the sweet, soft bread rolls. Warm and just right with a crispy outside and cloudlike inside. Rissoles were deliciously crisp, served piping hot, with a gooey prawn filling. The peri-peri, mopped up with buttery rolls, were a better starter than the foul fowl. The seafood platter was so fresh it could have leapt off the boats nearby. A winner were the mussels in white wine sauce. Delicate linefish, sizeable prawns and chunky calamari were all good in a mild lemon and herb flavour.

Afterthoughts? Seafood and see-food trump paltry poultry, and make for a pleasant experience at MAReSOL. Just skip the chicken, it’s a boring bird anyway.

MAReSOL, The Old Hildebrand building, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town. 021 425 3385