W
HEN my brother suggests we set aside a day for Rye, I am sceptical. A whole day for a small town in East Sussex, England? But it turns out to be an excellent idea.
The Rye Heritage Centre is a great way to start.
A large model shows the layout of the town and we decide to see the sound and light show. “It will be dark when I switch off the light,” says the operator. Only in England!
We sit, fascinated, as a narrator takes us through the history of Rye.
In medieval times, it was a Cinque Port. Situated on a hill and almost completely surrounded by sea, it provided protection against invasion across the English Channel, and was obliged to provide the king with ships. Smuggling was rife in the 18th and 19th centuries and our model lights up to indicate the favoured coves and the secret passage from The Mermaid Inn and The Olde Bell Inn.
Afterwards we go upstairs to try out the old-time seaside pier amusement machines and watch ghosts emerge from behind tombstones and a dog bite the postman. The lack of sophistication is mind-boggling compared with the computer games of today, but still good for a laugh.
After purchasing a map, we set off to find The Mermaid Inn. It is situated in Mermaid Street, a steep, cobbled road with narrow pavements, where the houses have been preserved as heritage sites. The inn is built in Tudor style and heavy, black beams contrast with white walls that look distinctly wonky. Thick, green Virginia creeper clings to the frontage and frames the doorway. Across the street, the house name affirms the inn’s fame. It is simply called The House Opposite.
Houses in Mermaid Street date back to Georgian, Tudor and even medieval times, each with their own distinctive architectural styles. It is summer and sunlight bounces off white walls, polishing the cobbles. In other places, brick walls back climbing roses, thick with abundant bloom, pink, yellow and vibrant red. Window boxes and tiny gardens are bright with scarlet geraniums and blue hydrangeas. Wisteria hangs its pendulous purple blooms above diamond-paned windows.
On our way to the Ypres Tower, home to Rye Castle Museum, we pause to photograph Lamb House, where the black door sports a shining brass knocker. Made famous by literary figures, the building has been host to King George I as well as writers such as Henry James, Rumer Godden and EF Benson. Benson’s novels were filmed here for the TV series Mapp and Lucia.
In front of the Castle Museum, cannons recall its function as a point of defence from attacks across the channel. It has also been used as a prison and a private residence.
Close by is the stone-built Anglican Church of St Mary’s, thought to have Norman origins. Inside, shafts of sunlight touch wooden pews, leading the eye to a single stained-glass window behind the altar. My mind struggles to fathom the age of the building and the thousands of people who have worshipped here. We stand a while in silence.
Returning to the main road, we stroll past small “old-fashioned” shops — a bakery, a sweet shop, and several antique outlets.
After lunch in a quaint restaurant that promises “freshly made vegetarian food”, we walk into one of the art galleries for which Rye is famous. The room is unexpectedly modern, spacious and well-lit with white walls and pale, oak flooring. The rooms are bathed in soft, afternoon light and the ambience is soothing, lending itself to the leisurely viewing of the artworks on the walls.
On our way back to the car park, we pause on the bridge to look at the yachts tied up in the harbour on the river. Some sport brightly coloured hulls that are mirrored in ripples on the water. Rye is undeniably picturesque and is used extensively as a location by film and television producers as well as advertising agencies.
For my part, I enjoyed the relaxing lack of buzz and revelled in the feeling of a place steeped in history. — © Jill Jacques
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