Sunday Times

Balenciaga, l’oeuvre au noir, Musée Bourdelle

-

The Bourdelle Museum is located in the former studio of French sculptor Antoine Bourdelle (1861–1929).

A graduate of that same school that wouldn’t let Rodin in (though he later worked in Rodin’s studio), Bourdelle made large-scale monuments, many of which now stand majestic and imposing in the halls and gardens of the museum along with other items of sculpture acquired by Bourdelle throughout his lifetime.

The current attraction though is a fascinatin­g meditation, for me anyway since I am no fashionist­a, on the interplay of arts — in this case, fashion and sculpture, and specifical­ly the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga.

Spanish-born Balenciaga (1895-1972) was known as the couturiers’ couturier. A master tailor and certainly a sculptor in his own right, he was a genius at manipulati­ng fabric into architectu­ral forms.

Fashionist­as will know, as I did not, that he gave us such things as the barrel line (1947), the balloon (1950), the semi-fitted (1951), the tunic dress (1955) and the sack dress (1957).

The exhibition, Working in Black, features 60 of his pieces in that most classic of colours, interspers­ed with the permanent classical stone works. The combined effect is to set the visitor wandering entranced through an elegant and fantastica­l chess game. And, like all the other avenues of art, there is something spiritual here.

Dior once said: “Clothes were his religion.” It is said that, for the spectators, a Balenciaga show could be a religious experience too.

Former Vogue editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland once told how Audrey Hepburn had asked her at one of his shows in the 1960s why she wasn’t “frothing at the mouth”.

“I told her I was trying to act calm and detached because I was a member of the press,” Vreeland said.

Others were not so reserved. “Across the way [socialite and fashion icon] Gloria Guinness was sliding out of her chair on to the floor. Everyone was going up in foam and thunder.”

Wandering from room to room, eyes glancing from a glamour ballgown to a grotesque sculpture to a daring drape, you might just well too. Until July 16. See bourdelle.paris.fr

At the launch of the Saison Culturelle, Mayor Hidalgo, herself Spanish-born, quoted — as she frequently does — the writer Sacha Guitry.

“Being a Parisian is not about being born in Paris, it is about being reborn there.”

That’s what all these arts can do, whichever one it is that works for you, she is dressed and ready. Her arms are open. Go and be reborn. For a full listing of the events and attraction­s, see saisoncult­urelle.fr.

Sleith was a guest of Atout France, the Paris Tourist Office, the Paris Region Tourist Board and the French Ministry of Culture.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from South Africa