OMAN: 10 things to see
There’s so much more to this sultanate on the Arabian Peninsula than sand,
OCCUPYING the southeast corner of the Arabian Peninsula, the Sultanate of Oman is as laid-back as neighbouring Dubai is flashy. Steeped in heritage and tradition, the country offers an intoxicating mix of spectacular scenery, luxurious hotels and guaranteed winter sun.
Most holidaymakers begin their stay in the low-key capital with its lively souks, historic quarters and beachfront hotels. Inland lie the craggy Hajar Mountains, centred on the ancient capital of Nizwa. Jebel Akhdar rises 3 000m at its peak, while the surrounding countryside is dotted with mud-brick villages and majestic forts set among plantations of date palms.
The coastline stretches some thousand miles south with sandy beaches that attract nesting turtles, while the old port city of Sur is famous for its traditional dhows. From here you can explore the desert dunes of the Wahiba Sands by 4x4 and sleep under the stars in a Bedouinstyle camp.
At the southernmost end of the country lies the city of Salalah, home of the ancient frankincense trade and gateway to the fabled Empty Quarter desert. In summer, the misty rains of the khareef (monsoon) turn the mountains and wadis from brown to green.
Separated from the rest of the country by the United Arab Emirates, Musandam occupies the tip of a peninsula where you can cruise through fjords alongside pods of cavorting dolphins.
You won’t go hungry, either. At the intersection of millennia-old spice and trade routes, Oman boasts a cuisine infused with the flavours of east Africa, India and Persia, and you can enjoy biryani-style rice dishes, spiced grilled meats and bountiful seafood. Pop into a shop or get invited to a local home and you’ll be treated to small cups of cardamom-spiced coffee served with sticky dates.
Here are 10 great ideas for making the most of Oman.
1 SULTAN QABOOS GRAND MOSQUE
Set against the Hajar Mountains and clad in smooth marble, this is the only mosque in Oman open to non-Muslims. It is one of the largest and most impressive structures in the region. Leave your shoes at the door, step inside the prayer hall and prepare to be left in slackjawed wonder. Hanging from the ceiling is an 8ton chandelier adorned with 600 000 Swarovski crystals; domes and pillars feature mosaics in shades of cobalt blue, sea green and turquoise.
Open Sat-Thurs 8am-11am (for nonMuslim visitors); abaya and scarf hire 2.5 Omani rials (about R85).
2 MUTTRAH CORNICHE
Lined with 19th-century merchants’ houses and punctuated by colourful minarets, Muttrah’s sweeping seafront is Muscat’s old commercial centre. It remains one of the city’s most vibrant areas, especially at sunset when families come out to stroll.
Start at the old fish market at the western end, where fishmongers hawk tuna, mahi-mahi and lobster, all hauled in fresh each morning. Continue to Muttrah Souk and amble down labyrinthine alleys packed with copper coffee pots and khanjars (traditional daggers), while abaya-clad women haggle for gold. Head past Muttrah Fort, built by occupying Portuguese forces in the 16th century, then climb the 100odd steps to the top of the restored watchtower at the eastern end of the esplanade for wonderful views of the harbour.
Muttrah Fish Market (open daily 6am10am; Muttrah Corniche near Hotel Marina Muscat). Muttrah Souk (open Sat-Thurs 8am-1pm and 5pm-9pm, Fri 5pm-9pm).
3 ROYAL OPERA HOUSE
Oman has never been known as a world centre for song but it does boast a striking opera house. It is the first of its kind in the Gulf and has become the country’s premier venue for the performing arts. The season runs from September to May, with an eclectic programme of opera, classical music, jazz, musicals, ballet, Arabic tarab and world music. There are more than 60 performances this season. Sneak a peek at its gold-gilded balconies and wood-panelled interiors on a 30-minute guided tour, where you can learn more about its design, acoustics and inner workings. Tours Sat-Thurs 8.30am-2.30pm; 3 rials (R100) per adult, 1 rial per child; Shatti Al Qurum district (rohmuscat.org.om).
4 AL ALAM PALACE AND NATIONAL MUSEUM
Few travellers leave Muscat without stopping outside Sultan Qaboos’s futuristic-looking building. Al Alam Palace (Palace of the Flag) was built in 1972, two years after the stillreigning sultan ousted his father in a Britishbacked coup. It is one of the funkiest royal palaces you’re ever likely to see, with mushroom columns in turquoise and gold. A short stroll away, the National Museum provides a first-rate introduction to the history of Oman. Plan for a few hours to take in the interactive exhibits and interesting short films — and don’t leave without sampling dates with qahwa (cardamom-infused coffee) in the ground-floor cafe.
Open Sat-Thurs 10am-5pm, Fri 2pm6pm; 5 rials (R172) per adult, free for children and students under 26 (facebook.com/nationalmuseumoman).
5 LUNAR-LIKE MOUNTAINS
The Hajar Mountains extend along the east coast from Sur to the Musandam Peninsula. The Jebel Akhdar (Green Mountain) is the most accessible peak, with two five-star resorts, Alila Jabal Akhdar and Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar, centred on the Saiq Plateau, 2 000m above sea level. Come April and May, the terraces are blanketed with Damask roses, which are harvested to make Oman’s famous smoky rosewater.
Jebel Shams (Sun Mountain) is the country’s highest peak, soaring more than 3 000m, with spectacular views of Wadi Nakhr, known as Oman’s Grand Canyon. The winding mountain roads can only be negotiated by 4x4. They’re not for the faint-hearted but they are magnificent. Alila Jabal Akhdar (alilahotels.com). Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar (jabal-akhdar.anantara.com).
6 BOUNDLESS DESERTS
The Wahiba Sands in Sharqiyah province is the country’s most accessible desert. Still home to Bedouin tribes, it spans 10 000km² of rippling red-gold sand and towering dunes over 90m high. There are a number of permanent camps where you can spend the night stargazing and enjoy dune bashing, sandboarding, quad biking and camel rides.
Further south, Salalah is the gateway to the Empty Quarter, the desert that spans four countries of the Arabian Peninsula. Infamous for its sinuous sand ridges up to 150m high, mysterious quicksands and unforgiving heat, it’s a place where you should only venture with a guide and properly equipped. Desert Nights Camp (desertnightscamp.com). Al Fawaz Tours (alfawaztours.com; full-day tour 130 rials/R5 000 for two people).
7 FRANKINCENSE TRAIL
The southern Dhofar region is home to the Boswellia sacra tree, source of the ancient world’s most prized commodity. The trade route, known as the Frankincense Trail, is preserved by Unesco as a world heritage site that begins in Wadi Dawkah, a forest of 5 000 frankincense trees. The crystallised sap of the trees has been harvested here for thousands of years. It was carried northward via Ubar, a caravanserai and oasis where camel trains stopped before entering the Empty Quarter. Archaeologists discovered the fortress city in the 1990s, although much of it has since disappeared into a sinkhole. Frankincense was also shipped to India, Rome and China from ports at Khor Rori and Al Baleed — where you can visit the ancient city ruins and explore the Land of Frankincense Museum.
The last stop on the trail, the ruins at Khor Rori, 32km east of Salalah, include a maze of buildings, temples and wells. Al Fawaz Tours (alfawaztours.com) does tailor-made tours of the frankincense sites.
8 SUN-KISSED BEACHES
There are a number of beautiful beaches in and around Muscat. Qurum Beach is a great place to take a dip, enjoy a stroll or soak up the views from one of the beachfront cafés.
Al Bustan, meanwhile, is a quiet public beach that is safe for swimming. The five-star Al Bustan Palace has day passes that allow you use of its private beach and hotel facilities.
Heading south, Tiwi Beach has intense blue waters, glistening white sands and excellent snorkelling.
The city of Salalah sits on a long, sandy beach lined with swaying palm trees, with pods of playful dolphins often spotted swimming close to shore.
Heading west, Mughsayl Beach is another scenic stretch of sand. During the summer monsoon, a cluster of blowholes shoot jets of water 30m into the air. Al Bustan Palace (ritzcarlton; entry 15 rials/R520 adult, 5 rials/R170 per child).
9 WILD WADIS
Oman’s arid landscape is littered with wadis, dry riverbeds in deep and narrow gorges carved out of the mountains. Fed by natural springs, these green oases provide a playground for hiking, canyoning and swimming.
The hike into Wadi Al Arbaeen, around 90 minutes from Muscat, is challenging and involves scrambling and wading through water, but you’re rewarded with emerald rock pools, palm-ringed lagoons and waterfalls.
Wadi Shab and Wadi Tiwi boast azure pools, terraced date plantations and small villages clustered along the valley floors. Wadi Bani Khalid has a year-round water supply, so you can expect tumbling waterfalls and abundant vegetation.
During the summer khareef (monsoon) down in Salalah, Wadi Darbat is a wide, green valley more reminiscent of Ireland than Arabia. It’s a popular picnic spot with streams, waterfalls and lush greenery.
10 STUNNING FJORDS
Known as the Norway of the Middle East, the Musandam Peninsula is a photogenic spot with sheer walls of sawtooth cliffs that plunge down into aquamarine waters. Dolphins frolic in the khors (fjords), so take a tour aboard a wooden dhow. Several companies offer full-day trips heading to Khor Ash Sham, the longest and most dramatic of all the inlets, stretching for some 16km.
Telegraph Island, once home to a 19thcentury British telegraph station, is a favourite spot to dock for lunch; you can step aboard the tiny island at high tide but have to swim when the tide is low.
For the postcard-perfect image of Musandam, opt for a 4x4 tour to Khor Al Najd. Combine that with a visit to Jebel Al Harim, the highest peak in the region, for the classic Khor Al Najd view that is often used in tourism campaigns.
Dolphin Khasab Tours
(dolphinkhasabtours.com) has a half-day mountain safari tour from 65 rials/R2 233 for up to four people. — © The Daily Telegraph