Sunday Times

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O France has a new president. The media are having a field day calling Emmanuel Macron the country’s “youngest leader since Napoleon”, which does not seem to be a fair comparison. Macron is at least 5cm taller than Bonaparte was and so far has voiced no desire to conquer other nations while wearing a silly hat and riding a white horse.

There is, however, one point of astonishin­g similarity. Napoleon was very fond of almonds. In his memoir Napoleon from the Tuileries to St. Helena: personal recollecti­ons of the emperor’s second mameluke and valet, Louis Étienne Saint-Denis wrote: “What he especially liked were fresh almonds. He was so fond of them that he would eat almost the whole plate.”

Macron has not expressed any particular fondness for nuts — the most we know about his eating preference­s is that he used to drink hot chocolate with his grandmothe­r, Manette, who his biographer François-Xavier Bourmaud says influenced his humanist politics — but his name is just one letter away from macaron, the French delicacy made with almond flour.

It is hoped that this youthful leader will bring good things to Europe and the world. Let us also pray that his name heralds a new era of understand­ing in which the macaron and the macaroon resolve their difference­s.

The macaron is small, precisely round and crisply delicate with a smooth shiny shell and soft centre. Macarons come in all colours and flavours, from lavender to pistachio to lemon. The most revered macarons come from Ladurée in Paris, which has a branch in New York that sells bright-orange pumpkin macarons at Halloween — as Billy Wilder frequently said, nobody’s perfect.

The macaroon, in the UK and the US, is a sickly sweet and squishy coconut confection which may have started out as a cousin of the macaron (Mrs Beeton’s 1861 recipe uses almond paste) but has evolved into another beast entirely.

The reason for the confusion is understand­able, because the words are closely related. The Wikipedia entry on this matter states: “The word macaroon is simply an Anglicisat­ion of the French word macaron (compare balloon, from French ballon).”

Even the bible of French cuisine, Larousse Gastronomi­que,

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