A TOURIST’S TAKE ON JOZI WHY JOHANNESBURG?
English journalist and presenter Dan Walker says his favourite city is energetic Joburg. Here are some of his hot spots
I’ve covered sporting events there several times. After almost 20 years of decline, Joburg is on the up and the cultural districts of Newtown and Braamfontein, with their theatres, museums, restaurants and cafés, teem with life. It’s a beautiful city, but there is still terrible poverty. Soweto was the place that really hit me. I don’t think you can understand South Africa without a visit to the Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum, which commemorates the role of students in the struggle against apartheid. WHERE’S THE BEST PLACE TO STAY? Curio City Backpackers (curiocitybackpackers.com )in Maboneng. It’s reputed to be where Nelson Mandela took refuge during the apartheid era. You can book a dorm, private room or pitch a tent on the roof. ANYTHING SPECIAL I SHOULD PACK? Temperatures are mild in winter due to the city’s high elevation, so pack warm clothes. WHAT’S THE MOST INTERESTING THING YOU’VE DONE THERE? Browse the stalls at Kwa Mai Mai Market, which is dedicated to traditional medicine. I was drawn to the goods made by the city’s homeless and bought a wonderful metal chicken for my kids, fashioned from recycled can ring-pulls. WHAT DO YOU MISS MOST WHEN YOU’RE NOT THERE? The energy and vibrancy. Don’t visit Johannesburg for a relaxing holiday. It’s an assault on the senses. WHERE WOULD YOU HAVE A DRINK? The Island Bar (tsogosun.com/southernsun-hyde-park-sandton/restaurantsbars/island-bar) in Hyde Park is the perfect place to unwind after shopping in the adjacent mall. If you’re looking for somewhere more relaxed, the Madeira Bar at 56 Winnie Street, Regents Park, is a Portuguese bar and restaurant with a familyfriendly atmosphere. BEST PLACE FOR LUNCH? I love pastries so I’d recommend Bread Basket (breadbasket.co.za), a popular café and bakery in Sandton City Shopping Centre, which serves a mouthwatering selection of Greek-baked delicacies and deli goods. Order a gigantic cheese sandwich, followed by baklava for dessert. AND FOR DINNER? The Wombles Steakhouse Restaurant (wombles.co.za) in Bryanston. It’s definitely not for vegetarians, but they don’t half do steak well. WHERE WOULD YOU TAKE A FIRSTTIMER? As a man who loves his sport, I’d have to say Ellis Park Stadium, (now Emirates Airline Park), which hosted the 1995 Rugby World Cup final. If, like me, you’ve seen the film Invictus, which tells the story of how Mandela united post-apartheid South Africa behind the Springboks’ triumphant run at the tournament, you can’t miss it. WHAT SHOULD I AVOID? As in most cities, crime is an issue so it’s best to avoid going out late at night on your own. I was also advised not to open a map in public. And don’t wear expensive jewellery. WHAT SHOULD I BRING HOME? You’ll find lots of glassware, basketry, beaded objects and wooden sculptures at the local craft markets. I bought a driftwood picture frame for a fraction of what it would cost in the UK. But don’t bring back biltong! I had it confiscated by customs at Gatwick Airport. PUBLIC TRANSPORT OR TAXI? I found the buses unreliable and the publictransport system struggles to meet demand, so I resorted to taxis. MANBAG OR MONEY BELT? I didn’t experience any pickpocketing, but I’ve had money stolen in other parts of the world so I’m a firm believer in concealing cash on your person. — Interview by Angela Wintle, © The Sunday Telegraph