PRANA THE PROOF IS IN THE TASTING
LOCATION
An hour from East London on the Wild Coast is the undeveloped seaside town, Chintsa. The name has a click and an accent but some in the Great Kei regions have always called it “since-sah”.
STYLE
Airy, fresh, clean themes with classic features such as wing-back chairs, dark shutters and velveteen throws. Persian rugs cover just about all of the bare floor of what was once a family holiday home. Fresh herbs in lieu of flowers arrive in your room every day.
The property has jewel-named rooms scattered off walkways through tropical forest. You wander on the cemented paths, through foliage overhead and around, eventually reaching the beach or the pool area near the restaurant. On the wet days it was like running through a humid rainforest to get to breakfast. Monkeys are known to steal packets of sugar if you forget them on the balcony.
The covered outdoor shower was lifegiving after a long day of travel, moreso in the rain. I had to smile at the brilliant shower “drain” — it featured a rockery with a tall tree growing out of it.
FACILITIES
There are splash pools in some rooms, or a central pond for lounging. Gin cocktails at the bar are special, and there are fireplaces for cold nights. The ladies at the spa can pummel the city out of you in the kindest way. PRANA LODGE, CHINTSA, EASTERN CAPE
SHANTHINI NAIDOO
The beach can be accessed through the neighbours’ property as the wooden staircase was washed away in floods recently.
EXPERIENCE
Isolation is the key drawcard for the area. A lovely Irish couple, on honeymoon, were thrilled by the storm we drove through together from the airport, as forked lightning highlighted hills and valleys. They lamented that the wet weather was not ideal for a beach stay but Prana has a spa, five-star comforts and fine dining.
For afternoon naps, rain falling on metal roofs made up for the lack of sunshine. In fact, the couple seemed to emerge at breakfast only two days later.
THE EATING
The first meal started with a hand cleanse: little white tablets are placed in a stone pod, filled with water. A napkin expands and emerges in origami fashion, with the scent of tea tree.
Chef Jaycee Ferreira is a master artist of the plate, with food that is arty, but the flavour combinations and basics perfected.
Cumin bread served with chicken liver paté were the first hint. Snoek fish cake with a delicate sauce followed. Then a confit lamb with trimmings, we were finished with a lemon tart.
Breakfasts are stacks of salmon and scrambled eggs or other made-to-order treats.
The faultless French sauces, appearing with local produce in most meals, plus the formidable wine selection, makes this one of the country’s
best fine-dining offerings. A long-stay visitor might do well to stop in at Olivewood, the family’s nearby golf estate. It features a tapas wine bar overlooking the river mouth and green.
RATES
From R2 050 B&B pps. R2 400 with dinner.
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