ROAMIN’ IN BATH
Wondrous old waters make this a city to savour, writes Neville Green
The English physician Dr William Oliver, in his “Practical Dissertation on the Bath Waters” in 1707 wrote, “If they can’t be cured by drinking and bathing here, they will never be cured anywhere.” Over 300 years later, beautiful Bath is a cure for many ills, a city that has the ability to heal all the stresses of modern life. The Roman legacy is seen all over England and Bath is an example of the empire’s vision and ingenuity, which was years ahead of its time. Bath is a place you can be transported back in time to circa 60 AD, when emperors’ excesses led to the Roman Empire’s downfall in 67 AD.
If you arrive by train at the Bath Spa station, a short walk will have you awestruck by the Avon River as it calmly cascades over weirs created by Roman walls.
Bath was subjected to devastating damage by the Luftwaffe during World War 2 and many of the buildings were rebuilt during the 1950s.
In 2012, 30 000 coins believed to date from the third century were discovered in an archaeological dig. Many of them are on display in The Roman Baths and Pump Room, whose bubbling waters are situated well below street level.
Visitors can also pamper themselves in warm mineral spa waters, an activity that has been enjoyed for over 2 000 years.
On a guided tour through history, actors in Roman centurion costumes pose with visitors for photos. At the visit’s end, you can test the good doctor’s recommended unique-tasting water.
For my part, I found it akin to a Gladiator’s power drink — I skipped up the ancient-rock stairway exit.
But there is more to Bath than hot springs and spas. Bath Abbey, with its superb stained-glass windows, honey-gold columns and noted for its stone fan vaulting was founded in the 7th century.
The Abbey’s tower is home to the ring of 10 bells, each with a fascinating history — the first six bells were installed in 1700.
Georgian architecture crafted in Bath stone is everywhere in this town, once home to Jane Austen.
The Royal Crescent, a row of 30 terraced houses, stands proud in its half-moon pose and is one of the greatest examples of Georgian architecture. The Circus, also a
gem completed in 1768, is based on the structure of Stonehenge. Architect John Wood believed that this area was once the principal site for Druid activity in Britain.
The hop-on, hop-off bus tours take in all the beauty of the city as you wind through the narrow streets and climb the hills overlooking the valley, with the River Avon meandering below.
The famous Bath Rugby Club is worth a visit. It is one of the oldest rugby clubs in England and Springbok flanker Francois Louw is a key member of their current squad.
The city square is always a hive of activity with buskers and mimes plying their trade every day.
Free group walking tours are a wonderful way to explore and the Mayor of Bath’s Honorary Guides ensure you have all the history at your fingertips as you stroll along the cobbled streets.
Picturesque Pulteney Bridge, which opened in 1774, reaches out across the Avon and forms a beautiful backdrop for families gathering near the water’s edge for a picnic while, on the water, swans and canoeists tackle the challenge of the protruding weir.
The Avon Monarch returns its full cargo of smiling passengers after a relaxing river ride as the sunshine glistens on the water. This is Bath time at its best.
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