A BIG DAY IN SÃO PAULO
With 12 million people, the biggest city in the Southern Hemisphere can be intimidating. Laura Brown walks you through a perfect 24 hours
8AM BREAKFAST
Brazilians are big on bread for breakfast, so start your day at Padaria Bella Paulista (Rua Haddock Lobo, 354). This 24-hour bakery is an institution among the hip set of São Paulo, serving pastries, smoothies and fresh juices. Try the pão de queijo (baked cheese rolls), a ham-and-cheese sandwich or rabanadas ,a kind of cinnamon French toast.
9AM MUSEUM
Museu de Arte de São Paulo, better known as MASP, is a 10-minute walk from Padaria Bella Paulista. The imposing building on Avenida Paulista hosts an impressive collection by the likes of Picasso, Gauguin and Di Cavalcanti and puts on exhibitions showing different artworks as well as music and dance shows.
11AM MARKET
You’ll be ready for a mid-morning snack after all that art, so hop in a cab to the Mercado Municipal, a foodie paradise where vendors are keen to offer free samples of their wares. In addition to cheeses, sausages and olives, you can feast on tropical fruits you’ve probably never laid eyes on, like dragon fruit, rambutan, custard apples and jabuticaba.
1PM LUNCH
Head to the upmarket neighbourhood of Ibirapuera, where you’ll find a selection of fancy restaurants. For Brazilian food, look for a “por kilo” restaurant, where you grab a plate and go around the buffet helping yourself to whatever takes your fancy, whether it be feijoada (bean stew), roast chicken or mystery greens, then head to the till where your plate will be weighed and you’ll pay according to the weight of your meal. They also have por kilo ice-cream shops, which can be dangerous.
2PM PARK
A stroll through Ibirapuera Park is the perfect way to burn off some calories after lunch. It’s a massive green space with jogging paths, woods, art galleries and a lake with black swans, providing a tranquil escape from the bustling metropolis.
4PM COFFEE AND GRAFFITI
Head to the bohemian neighbourhood of Vila Madalena for a coffee stop to rest your feet before some more walking. If you love cute coffee shops, you might need an entire day to try out all the cafés around here. Or look for Coffee Lab on Rua Fradique Coutinho for a full barista experience. You’ll want to make it quick so you can check out “Batman Alley” before it gets dark. The area around Rua Gonçalo Afonso and Rua Medeiros is a fascinating outdoor museum of bright murals and graffiti.
7PM DINNER
You can either stick around Vila Madalena and try any of the trendy restaurants, as you will be returning later for drinks, or head over to Bar da Dona Onça for a sit-down dinner. This classy institution on the ground floor of the Copan Building serves local fare with a modern twist, and architecture buffs will enjoy the chance to check out one of Oscar Niemeyer’s wave-inspired creations. You’ve likely heard of Brazil’s most famous cocktail the caipirinha, made with cachaça, lime and sugar. Dona Onça’s version, the Onça Pintada (“spotted jaguar” in English) has passion fruit instead of lime and is a must for cocktail lovers.
9PM DRINKS
Vila Madalena is buzzing with pubs and cafés, and a great place for bar-hopping. Top options include the hipster Piratininga Bar and artsy Mercearia São Pedro, but walking along Wisard, Aspicuelta or Harmonia streets you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you opted for an early start to drinking rather than a formal dinner, take the cue from your hosts and order something light to go with your drinks. Lunch is the main meal for most Brazilians, and they’ll often just have a snack in the evening, confusingly called “lanche”. Typical snacks to soak up the alcohol are coxinha, a kind of fried dumpling stuffed with chicken; pastel, a fried pastry with different fillings such as cheese, chicken or mince; esfiha, a triangular baked pie-like bread filled with mince.
11PM DANCING
If you’re looking to dance into the morning hours, make your way to Ó do Borogodó for a Paulista nightlife experience. It’s a small down-to-earth spot, popular with locals, and one of the best places for samba. They have live music most nights and also serve food.
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