VEGETARIAN ADVENTURES
Few can make magic with vegetables like an Indian chef
Dal makhani in India has a unique taste you should never forget as long as you live
SWARUCHI PURE VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT 45 Central Road, Fordsburg, Joburg 011 492 1102
Acclaimed chef Rick Stein, known for his love of freshly caught fish, fowl and other fauna, once made a point about vegetarian Indian cuisine. After a visit to the subcontinent, he said the vast vegetarian population had never suffered bland food for the lack of meat. The flavour profiles, he said, were unbelievable — even when cooking oddities like the bumpy, nearly inedible bitter gourd. I was reminded of this at Swaruchi Pure Vegetarian Restaurant, where the menu of dozens of dishes had my lunch companions and I flummoxed. The menu is a journey through several regions. We were undecided and so tried them all at the recommendation of manager Gopinder Bains Singh.
From the dal menu, the North Indian creamy dal makhani was a go-to. Makhani means butter-based, and the result was a rich yet earthy lentil dish (R49). It was polished off with fresh, light naan (R10).
Singh said, with audible love for his country, that dal makhani in India had a unique taste that you should never forget as long as you live. It was delicious, but we will have to go back for reminders of the taste, which could have done with some salt.
The palak paneer (spinach and cheese) was flavoursome and the hottest of our dishes (R69).
Next up was the South Indian idli, a steamed rice cake served with coconut and tomato chutneys and a thinner, less-extravagant version of dal (R29). Idli is a breakfast favourite, but can be eaten as a better version of bread. The dough is fermented, then steamed, with a taste similar to injera in Ethiopian cuisine.
Also off the South Indian menu, the dosa was a sight to devour. The metre-wide, paperthin savoury crepe was stuffed with braised potato and served with chutneys on the side. That was most memorable. Some restaurants do a prawn or paneer version, but the traditional potato masala at R39 was simple and lovely.
I was sceptical about the Indo-Chinese Manchurian biryani (R89), studded with vegetarian balls, but we were pleasantly surprised by a non-soy, fried cauliflower-cabbage creation in a spicy tomato gravy with sweet-sour Chinese flavours. Served in a clay pot sealed with roti dough, it opened up to release a fragrant steam that danced with onion and spice aromas.
So Swaruchi proved Stein right.
There are few who can make magic with vegetables like the Indian chef, and with regional favourites, plus some Durban-style options like bunny chows, there is a lot on show. Up a winding staircase in a clean, unpretentious setting with photographs of the Taj Mahal for effect, it really is worth the visit to the area. I would sit on the balcony, with its view of the Orient Hotel and the famous bakery and sweet shop, Shalimar Delights.
Speaking of sweet, we ended our meal with gulab jamun (R25), which came with three tiny spoons. A colleague quipped they should be called “diabetes dough balls” for their generous soaking in syrup. A tiny spoonful was just enough.