MAKE A MEAL OF MAURITIUS
Patrick Leclezio explores the unusual delights that await the culinary adventurer on this Indian Ocean island
Mauritius is one of those places where it’s impossible not to eat well. Its long tradition of outstanding hospitality along with its cultural diversity mean a special culinary proficiency is one of its vital assets. The stuff you’ll find on the surface, however — the half-board buffets, the occasional stop at a street stall, and the internet-guided restaurant selections — will only take you so far. There’s the good, and then there’s the exceptional — the gems that need to be unearthed.
ITS OWN KIND OF CURRY
The majority of the Mauritian population is of Indian descent, so that nation’s influence is pervasive in its cuisine.
My favourites are the flatbreads and, of course, the curries.
While these dishes have been carried far and wide by the Indian diaspora, there are variations that are, if not unique, then at least well honed on the island.
Paratahs (also called rotis and faratas), a great Indian staple, are here in force, but it’s to the dhal puri that you should pay special attention.
Made from dough containing split pulses, which cook to a flaky consistency, dhal puri is typically served with chilli, pickles and sometimes curry, and is only commonly available in Mauritius (although a distinct style has emerged in the Caribbean).
The dhal puri is the ultimate snack (or meal) for displaced Mauritians such as me, who habitually order towering stacks on our visits, which we’ll freeze and take back with us, such is its delectability.
They are widely available at street stalls but the best may be from Dewa & Sons, located in the Bagatelle Mall in Moka.
Another flatbread worth trying is ti-puri. This is effectively the same as India’s unleavened, deep-fried bread, though in Mauritius it is served with local dishes, such as rougaille (a tomato-based stew), bredes songes (Mauritian water cress), achard de legumes (pickled vegetables) and bringelles au miel (honeyed eggplant), as well as the obligatory curries.
They’re great for a lingering, gregarious lunch on a verandah overlooking the ocean.
DEER OH DEER
Two curries worth seeking out are curry de cerfs (venison), and homard au curry (lobster).
The former is tied into the earliest recorded history of the island, when the original Dutch settlers introduced Java deer — populations of which have persisted over the centuries, considerably outlasting their masters.
It’s not easy to find on a menu these days, the supply of deer meat being irregular, but stay on the lookout, and if you’re in a villa get your housekeeper on the job — spicy and gamey make a heady mix of flavours.
The finest purveyor of curried lobster is Chez Rosy in Souillac in the south.
FRUITS OF THE SEA
As one would expect from the “pearl of the Indian Ocean”, the island’s chefs excel at seafood.
Fish and fruits de mer are integral to Mauritian cuisine. When you’re there, you should seize with both hands your chance to partake of this natural bounty.
There are two fish in particular that are spoken of in hallowed tones by those with deep roots on the island: sacré chien and gueule pavée.
They’re less abundant today than in previous years, although they do appear on restaurant menus here and there.
Your best chance of finding them may be to head to the “débarcadère” in Grand Baie, the jetty for the town’s fishing boats.
Even if you don’t find any, it will still be an interesting excursion and you could of course buy some delightful alternatives, such as vielle rouge and Capitaine.
Mauritian waters — and consequently tables — are replete with not only fish but also octopi, crabs, oysters, mussels, lobsters, prawns, scallops and the like.
But the most iconic of the island’s dishes are a combination of its aquatic and terranean resources.
Make it your mission to track down palmiste with crevettes or camarons, the succulent heart of a palm tree, served with prawns, typically in a red sauce, and prepared in a variety of ways. Curepipe’s La Potinière has a wonderful souffléd version.
POTATO, BUT BETTER
The arouille violette is a local tuber, closely related to the madumbi (but markedly superior), which makes the most delicious mash.
They’re available from most vegetable markets, and are best appreciated in combination with a meat dish.
Another exotic item is the tamarind fruit, the dark sticky pulp of which is used to produce juice, pickles, preserves and chutneys.
Most people describe its flavour as sweet, tangy and tart, but I find it musky as well — it’s quite unique.
There’s a local brand called Les Vergers de Labourdonnais, which has an outstanding tamarind juice in most supermarkets. This might be the most convenient and accessible way to sample this unusual fruit.
Punch mariage is an iced concoction of rum, lemon juice, sugar, water and egg white, traditionally served at Mauritian weddings. It is delicious. It can be sourced from Nathalie Maurel (+230 5257 2172), considered to be the island’s expert.
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