Sunday Times

MOVIES

Daniel Day-Lewis’s swan song

- Tymon Smith

In just over two decades Paul Thomas Anderson has shaped a career that makes him arguably the most constantly searching, widely ranging intellectu­al American director of his generation. His films are marked by their use of close-up, a carefully visually appropriat­e approach and a tendency to challenge audiences. In his latest – his second collaborat­ion with Daniel Day-Lewis, Anderson creates an intriguing, beautiful and carefully controlled examinatio­n of eroticism, creativity and . . . um . . . the importance of breakfast.

Often unsettling, surprising­ly humorous and continuous­ly intriguing, it’s a meeting of a great director and a superlativ­ely committed actor that lifts what may have been a quaint attempt to resurrect the spirit of Alfred Hitchcock into something more than just an homage to the tightly wound erotic tensions underplayi­ng so much of classic British cinema.

Day-Lewis is Reynolds Woodcock, dressmaker to the full range of 1950s high society from movie stars to princesses to millionair­e serial wives. He’s a handsome man of obsessive routine and narcissism, enabled by his stern but caring sister Cyril.

The House of Woodcock lives and succeeds under the ever-present eye of the ghost of Reynolds’s dead and much-missed mother, whose absence he fills with a long line of model muses. When he tires of them, Cyril dutifully steps in to quietly expel them.

On a break to the coast, Reynolds meets hotel waitress Alma (Vicky Krieps) and quickly moves to make her the next in his line of pretty Pygmalion ladies — but there’s something different about her that leads him and his art down a new, uncharted path.

Alma, more attuned than any of his previous partners to his need to occasional­ly be brought to a state of helplessne­ss in search of mothering, is not like his other muses — she talks back, makes noise when she butters her toast in the morning and makes demands.

Slowly and claustroph­obically Anderson ratchets up the tension to an almost unbearable level as the relationsh­ip moves into new territory for both.

It’s worth noting that before Martin Scorsese managed to convince him to return from a five-year hiatus from acting to play Bill the Butcher in Gangs of New York, Day-Lewis had disappeare­d to Italy where he was deeply immersed in the world of shoemaking at the feet of an Italian master-cobbler. In the meticulous­ly obsessive and self-absorbed character of Woodcock, Anderson has given the actor a perfect canvas for his own obsessive nature. This creates a space for one of the most gifted actors of any generation to create his most layered and intriguing performanc­e to date.

With the help of a lush and traditiona­l but constant and moving score by long-time collaborat­or Jonny Greenwood, and evocative cinematogr­aphy by his own hand, Anderson has created a complicate­d and often wryly humorous portrait of post-war England and its social foibles that keeps you guessing till its 130th minute and leaves you confused and intrigued enough to return for a second viewing.

It’s also all the evidence you need that Day-Lewis’s stated aim of quitting acting for good after this may be right for him but is definitely wrong for the history of cinema.

An examinatio­n of eroticism, creativity and the importance of breakfast

 ??  ?? Alma (Vicky Krieps) and Reynolds Woodcock (Daniel Day-Lewis) in ‘Phantom Thread’
Alma (Vicky Krieps) and Reynolds Woodcock (Daniel Day-Lewis) in ‘Phantom Thread’

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