AREN’T I GLAD

A last-minute decision to put on heels turned out to be a good idea when we tried out Van Der Linde, the newest addition to the popular Linden restaurant district.

It was a Friday evening after a long week, and knowing the casual vibe of restaurants in this Johannesburg village, you might think jeans and flats would cut it. They don’t.

This smart space deserves cashmere and perfume, because it certainly brings polish to the casual, bistro-type eateries around it.

I had heard it is the new home of chef Amori Burger, who has built up a bit of a following from Greenside’s Trio Cafe and Op die Spyskaart television show.

While neighbouring Brian Lara Bar and Choo Choo Junction are wonderful, quirky after-work drinks spots with amazing casual food, as are The Whippet and the Fat Zebra breakfast spots, Van Der Linde is aiming at, but not quite, in the fine-dining direction.

Decor is straight out of a design magazine with rose gold, bamboo furniture, aerial plants and wooden floors, plus digital art and posh personalised crockery and napkins. A small, slightly pricey menu suits a special night out.

But I am pleased to say the food is big on taste and low on pretension.

This season’s menu is all about hearty winter food with a bit of imagination — think lamb and gnocchi that were both melt-in-your mouth with warming spices and a hint of lemon for umami.

“It is simple food, we try to make it well and it is inspired by the world, English, French, Indian ... but it is about fresh ingredients sourced as close to us as possible to keep the carbon footprint down,” said Burger.

I didn’t want to share my harissa paneer and pumpkin “breyani”, a worthy vegetarian option. The breyani was slightly mushy, almost a risotto with bold heat, bulked up with sweet and baby potatoes. But the star was not the paneer, which missed the harissa at times. The pumpkin slices were roasted, caramelised and flavoured into something special.

This was no poor cousin to the meaty mains.