SWEDE SURRENDER
As Sweden celebrates its national day this week, Chris Leadbeater says why you should make its ‘second city’ your first stop
9AM BREAKFAST
Da Matteo (damatteo.se), a local coffee chain, has several branches in town, two of which are opposite each other on the square on Magasinsgatan, one of the city’s most popular streets. They bake their own bread and pastries, and roast their own coffee — if you’re interested, don’t hesitate to ask the friendly staff about their craft.
10AM ON THE WATERFRONT
See the changing times before your eyes on the waterfront. Begin at the Museum of Gothenburg (goteborg sstadsmuseum.se) on Norra Hamngatan, which houses the bones of a Viking longship that sank in the 10th century. Two doors to the east, inspect the Deutsche Kirke — a brick temple that opened in 1748 — then head north on Torggatan to admire the state-of-the-art opera house (en.opera.se).
11.30 MUSEUM
Neighbours on Gotaplatsen, a public square at the southern end of Avenyn, the city’s main boulevard, the Konstmuseum (goteborgskonstmuseum.se) and the free Konsthall (konsthallen.goteborg.se) are the art strongholds. The former has work by Rubens, Monet, Picasso and Munch; the latter rotated contemporary exhibitions.
1PM LUNCH
In the charming Haga neighbourhood, with its traditional wood buildings and cobbled streets, dip into café culture at any number of spots. Café Husaren (cafehusaren.se )— under a century-old glass ceiling — is famous for its giant cinnammon buns, but does sandwiches and other light lunches too.
2PM TIME TO SHOP
Pick up a pair of Nudie Jeans — the denim brand founded in Gothenburg in 2001 — at the store on shopping drag Vallgatan (nudiejeans.com). If vintage is your thing, find antiques and ’20s dresses at the cool Fafangan Antik (fafangansantik.com).
3PM FUNFAIR
This year’s summer season has officially launched at the Liseberg theme park (liseberg.com), a mix of leafy grounds and thrill rides, one of Scandinavia’s most popular attractions.
5PM PRE-DINNER DRINKS
South of Haga, Linné is another resurgent district, now full of bars and cafés. Tacos & Tequila (tacosandtequila.se) is an example of its easy vibe, serving La Maracuya cocktails (tequila, grapefruit, passion fruit).
7PM DINNER
Just off Kung sport save ny en, Familjen (restaurangfamiljen.se) serves local fare, such as grilled veal with soused parsley root. Norda (nordabargrill.se), inside the Clarion Hotel Post, offers Swedish pork belly with potato purée and apple sauce.
9PM NIGHTLIFE GLURGETONC
Trädgår’n is one of the city’s largest clubs. Located in the Garden Society, it hosts major concerts and clubs year round. For something different, the Latino restaurant Tranquilo turns into a dance floor after service. On its bottom floor, the semi-secret Stranger is a speak-easy-style bar hidden behind a nondescript doorway with a tiny sign. You have to ring the bell for entry.