Sunday Times

A NEW LUXURY

Designer Frances van Hasselt is determined to alter the world’s perception of African luxury, one hand-woven mohair rug at a time

- TEXT: ROBERTA THATCHER francesvh.com

Having grown up on a family farm in the Karoo that owns one of the oldest mohair studs, designer Frances van Hasselt holds a deep affinity for the beautiful natural fibre. Her family still farm Angora goats in Prince Albert, and Frances has used her knowledge of and passion for mohair to create her own line of designer products, Frances V.H handwoven mohair rugs.

With ethical production, beautiful design and a uniquely superior raw material, Frances’s rugs offer yet another reason to put African design in the global spotlight.

You grew up in a family that worked with mohair. What inspired you to create your own mohair products?

Mohair is one of the world’s most ancient, exclusive and sustainabl­e natural fibres, and one of the few uniquely local luxury products. I have always felt that mohair should be recognised in the same way cashmere is in Scotland, or Alpaca in Peru. To achieve this, we need to create exceptiona­l products that celebrate mohair’s distinctiv­e characteri­stics and African heritage.

Who do you work with to create your products?

I have been privileged to work with a passionate and dynamic team of mentors, makers and designers, developing a business that provides sustainabl­e employment and preserves traditiona­l craftsmans­hip in remote areas of the country. The artisans who make our rugs constantly inspire me. Every step of the process, from spinning the yarn to carefully trimming the finished rug, is carried out by hand by women in rural communitie­s whose skilled workmanshi­p gives the rugs their unique quality.

Tell us about your design process.

Our design inspiratio­n draws from the places, spaces and people of the Karoo. Our rugs aim to replicate its dusty plains, the rich colours of its delicate vegetation, its textured landscapes and crisp light. There is something so natural and uncomplica­ted about the Karoo, yet it is also sophistica­ted. We try to carry these elements across into the rugs we weave.

What are the rewards of working in the Karoo?

The Karoo is filled with simple sophistica­tion and a unique sense of self. There is no place like it in the world and it doesn’t try to be anything else. It is a privilege to make products that stem directly from its plains; working with Angora goats that thrive in its harsh terrains and skilled artisans whose traditiona­l craftsmans­hip should be preserved and celebrated the world over.

And the challenges?

When it comes to remote production our biggest challenges are logistical ones; mainly transport and access to basic connectivi­ty.

The message you would like your rugs to share with the world?

We hope to inspire local and internatio­nal consumers to realise the relevance of unique African luxury goods. When we start putting together pieces that combine the unique strengths of our local textile industry, we can start to compete and collaborat­e with the rest of the world. We need to get to a point where people buy our products not just because they have an African story, but because they are quite simply exceptiona­l.

‘Our rugs aim to replicate the Karoo’s dusty plains, the rich colours of its delicate vegetation, its textured landscapes and crisp light.’

FRANCES VAN HASSELT

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