THE WITCHES AND LADY WRESTLERS OF LA PAZ
Bolivia’s capital, the highest in the world, has some outlandish attractions, writes Sediqa Khatieb
Most people go to Bolivia to experience the surreal landscapes of Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest salt flat. As the pan is situated at 3 656m, however, for most people the extreme elevation means altitude sickness. I’d previously suffered from the dreaded nausea, and I can tell you that it is not fun. Determined not to repeat that situation, I gave myself time to acclimatise by spending two days in La Paz, Bolivia, before starting my tour. La Paz is at 3 500m above sea level, making it the highest administrative capital in the world. It is chaotic and by no means a beautiful city, but there’s enough to keep you busy for 48 hours.
Here are some things to do if you ever find yourself there:
TAKE A WALKING TOUR
During the walking tour, I learnt about the oddity that is San Pedro prison, where inmates live with their families. They must pay for their accommodation (prison cells), food and medication. Nothing is free. In order to survive the capitalist system, inmates must find employment within the prison walls. Occupations include shoe shiner, cook, tour guide and (surprisingly) drug manufacturer. The purest cocaine is produced within the walls of San Pedro.
If you’re interested in learning more about this fascinating system, read Marching Powder. It tells the tale of Thomas McFadden, a British man convicted of smuggling cocaine. He was the first person to establish tours to the prison.
Another highlight for me was the Witches Market, where dried llama foetuses are sold. We were told that, before any big building projects, the foetuses are buried beneath construction sites. In some instances, it is said that homeless people were drugged and buried alive to appease the earth mother, Pachamama.
Tours last about three hours and can be bizarre and fascinating.
CHOLITA WRESTLING
“Cholita” was once a derogatory term for indigenous or mixed-heritage girls, particularly women of the Quechua and Aymara tribes. Identifiable by their traditional garb of frilly skirts, fringed shawls, long plaits and bowler hats, they were once prevented from walking freely through La Paz. But a lot has changed since Evo Morales became the first indigenous person to be elected as president in Bolivia in 2006. Since then perceptions about native people have evolved. “Cholitas” are now seen as proud, powerful women.
The wrestling features women in traditional dress — no spandex or masks here. Expect choke holds and theatrical leaps from the ropes, along with loads of screaming from the enthusiastic onlookers. It’s a great way to spend two hours.
Cholita wrestling takes place on Sundays at El Alto’s Multifunctional Centre. Tours can be arranged through your hostel and the ticket price includes entry, transport to the centre, popcorn, a souvenir and entry to the toilet.
VALLE DE LA LUNA
The “Moon Valley“is a bizarre geological formation.
According to legend, it got its name after a visit from Neil Armstrong, but this titbit cannot be verified.
The valley is composed of a range of canyons and rocky spires, the result of years of erosion. The variation in colour of the spires is due to the differences in the mineral content of the rock.
There are tours that offer transport, a bilingual guide and entry into the site. Alternatively, simply ask your hotel for clear instructions on hailing a collectivo (minibus taxi) to the site.
Walking through the Moon Valley will take approximately 45 minutes.
MI TELEFÉRICO
The cable-car system has 20 stations along six lines and is 10km long, making it the largest in the world. It was designed to reduce traffic between La Paz and the neighbouring city of El Alto.
Coming from Cape Town, with its Table Mountain, fragrant fynbos, and views of Camps Bay, I must admit that I found La Paz’s system rather underwhelming. There was a sense of “now what” once I’d reached the top. But I’d definitely recommend giving it a spin. It gives one a great sense of the topography and populous nature of the city.
DRINK THE FRUIT JUICE
Throughout the city there are several stalls selling fresh fruit juice (jugo). Customers select three or four different fruits, such as star fruit, Bolivian mangosteen and passionfruit. These are blended with water (agua) or milk (leche) — you choose. Unless explicitly stated, a huge heaping of sugar (sucre) will be included. Once you’ve finished your juice, return the glass and if the stall holder likes you, she might give you an extra portion.
I’d gone to La Paz with the sole intention of acclimatising, but ended up learning so much about Bolivian life and culture. Share your travel experiences with us in Readers’ World. Send your photos — at least 500KB — and a story of no more than 800 words. Include a recent photo of yourself. Please note that stories should not have been previously published elsewhere, either in print or online. ALL winners receive R1 000. Only winning entrants will be contacted. E-mail travelmag@sundaytimes.co.za.