Sunday Times

COUNTER CULTURE

- Allison Foat

277 Main Road, Sea Point

The stand-up coffee bar is here, SA’s first. Pauline’s has opened in Sea Point, introduced to the vibrant seaboard neighbourh­ood by Jon-Paul (JP) Bolus of Loading Bay fame. Common in cities like Rome, Melbourne and Manhattan, the concept now finds itself in the Mother City where, by all accounts, the coffee renaissanc­e continues unabated. JP has always had an eye for fine style and excellence and, at Pauline’s, the coffee is supplied by Woodstock-based speciality roasters Rosetta, rated by many aficionado­s as one of the best in the business.

Select a latte, long black or flat white and the baristas can advise combinatio­ns favourably suited to each of the three single-origin varieties on offer. Sample the Kenyan Ndaro-Ini, with its full and sweet red-grape acidity and notes of black tea. Or try the Ethiopian Beloya OCR, which is crisp and sweet with citrus, jasmine and stone fruit notes. Then there’s the Javanese Frinsa Collective, which has aromatic herbal elements combined with spice and brown sugar sweetness.

A small food offering is on display with ready-to-go cold-pressed juices and health jars, plus an array of pastries like ginger and seed muffins, vegan millionair­e’s shortbread, Swedish cinnamon buns, traditiona­l Babkes made with Honest’s dark organic chocolate, and a selection of gluten and sugarfree options for banters and calorie-conscious snackers.

The interior is minimalist, pulling focus away from the décor and towards the drink. JP explains that Pauline’s, named after his grandmothe­r, is a continuati­on of the journey with SANS, his newly launched ethical grocer and home goods store, two doors away in the ARTEM Centre. “Our objective is to prepare and share a wide offering of coffee and connect people to the source.”

Next time you’re on the commute, slip inside, order your brew and stand a little. It’s time for some counter culture, literally.

paulinesco­ffee.com

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