BRINGING IT ALL BACK HOME
MARIGOLD 9 Huguenot Street Franschhoek
Tel: 021 876 8970 marigoldfranschhoek.com
Executive chef Vanie Padayachee wasn’t too confident when her boss, international tycoon Analjit Singh, proposed opening a North Indian eatery in the heart of the chic French Huguenot village just outside Cape Town. Two weeks later, undeterred and armed with her own selection of no fewer than 189 popular dishes endemic to India’s upper provinces, she was gently dispatched to Delhi at Singh’s behest to spend time with a local specialist chef who was to coach her through detailed recipe deconstruction and recreation. Day to day, she listened, observed, experimented and made copious notes until the time came to prepare a feast for Singh and his delegation, in the city on business. Impressing such an esteemed party of people was an intimidating prospect, she recalls, but the dinner was a success and she nailed the “audition”. Two months later, buoyed by the experience, she was back in her own kitchen, whipping up marvellous creations in her tandoor oven and curating the vast authentic menu that has been delighting patrons since Marigold opened its doors 18 months ago.
The dynamic chef, 44, whose heritage is both Sri Lankan and South Indian, has an impressive bio that includes opening the restaurant at Grande Provence for Alex van Heeren, and a six-year stint with Margot Janse at Le Quartier Français, the iconic property acquired by Singh’s Leeu Collection and located right across from Marigold in Heritage Square.
Good Indian food is a heady experience, loaded with flavour and aroma and ideal for sharing, a delicious social enabler that invites participation. With the snap of a poppadum the dipping starts and the platters don’t disappoint. The Palak Chaat is an addictive introduction, crispy spinach leaves in gram flour batter topped with sweetened curd, tamarind, chilli and onion.
The Vegetarian Thali is loaded with variety and new taste sensations such as Aloo Ghobi Adrakhi, a marriage of steamed cauliflower and potatoes, sautéed with garlic and high on ginger, and the unforgettable soft Paneer Tikka, marinated overnight with saffron, yoghurt, cream cheese and traditional mix of Indian spices, basted and grilled in a tandoor with peppers, onions and tomatoes, garnished with onion rings and green coriander served with coriander mint chutney. Find space for the dessert — the Basen Ladoo, sweet chickpea flour fudge topped with a light creamy cheesecake filling infused with cinnamon and served with star anise fruit compote and frozen yoghurt ice cream. Quite the finale!
At Marigold, dishes may be simple in composition, but the plating is sophisticated — “street food in a Wonderbra” as Vanie puts it, having a good laugh. And helpings are generous so take the pace down a notch and settle in for an evening of slow eating.
Vanie Padayachee’s food is a peek into another culture, all the way from the Himalayas to the ‘Hoek, a culture half a world away and right on our doorstep.
Vanie’s word of inspiration for aspirant female chefs:
“Being a woman chef in a maledominated world has taught me to work harder and smarter.
Never give up. Dedication and perseverance will get you to where you want to be.”