DAZED & CONFUSED IN BARCELONA
Imagination runs wild at Spain’s zany Gracia Fiesta, writes Ryan Cresswell
Blame it on a savage sugar rush brought about by too much cheap brandy, but I reeled back, dazed and confused. A giant Marshmallow Man was blocking the entrance to my favourite bar in Barcelona and a crowd of very thirsty teenagers was jamming up behind me. I began to worry that things could turn ugly, then I remembered I was locked into the wild heart of the Gracia Fiesta. This colourful extravaganza has kicked off in this part of the city every summer for about 200 years and everybody was having such a good time that any bad vibes had been abandoned for the night.
I decided to walk around the block to the other end of this particular alley, only to find it guarded by two huge, red-eyed dogs from hell. I then realised what was going on, the surreal was now the norm, the Ghostbusters had come to town, or at least an artistic interpretation of that Hollywood blockbuster.
The Gracia Fiesta runs for five days from August 15 every year, mixing art, politics and happy debauchery in a seven-day swirl of colour and sounds that feed the senses like a nightly triple shot of absinthe.
THE PRIDE OF A BOHO AREA
This fiesta is the smallest of three major events that have become famous in Barcelona. The other two being the Carnival, where everybody mutates into an expression of their subconscious; and the Fuego, or Fire Fiesta, where hundreds of devils bearing flames and crackers run through the streets while older, and wiser, folk pour buckets of water on them from patios above.
Many prefer the Gracia Fiesta. It is the pride of a bohemian area a short Metro ride from downtown that attracts thousands from around the world.
Originally a village in its own right and now an area incorporating several Barcelona suburbs, it is a deeply Catalan environment of cafés, bars, flats, plazas, galleries and light industry.
My artist brother Goodie, who has lived in the Gracia with his family for more than 20 years, told me artists from each block got together months before the event to create themed scenes that stretch for whole streets. The local municipality helps with tax cash.
STREETS EXPLODE WITH MUSIC
In a city known for its artists, this area stands out, with the fiesta being a highlight of artistic endeavour. Last year, the fiesta was held up for a day because of the tragedy on Las Ramblas where several people were mown down by extremists in a van. However, in true Catalan style, it was soon up and running again, but with a larger police presence. There were drummers rapping out traditional beats on huge drums, giant puppets roamed the streets and beer and wine flowed throughout the day. Each night the streets exploded with light, colour and music.
One lane used an enormous, intricately carved fantasy egg as a monster lamp that acted as a centrepiece to a fairyland scene. Another concentrated on the history of communism, all done in red and black with posters of Marx and Lenin front and centre.
EVERYTHING IS ART
Some of the exhibits, of which there were well over a dozen, used plants and lights to create colourful, street-long caverns where crowds of people drank hard, cheered and swayed to a variety of rhythms through most of the night.
Every corner seemed to have an image dredged up by some imaginative group. One had a bunch of shoulder-high pots housing tennis balls, which had been turned into large eyes peeping from under half-closed lids.
On another a macabre array of small coffins and skeletons swayed and danced in the light breeze.
Every night as the air cooled after a very hot day, the party activity increased to a midnight crescendo, and then carried on into the early hours.
The sprawling exhibits were also judged by a special panel and the event ended in a main plaza, against a background of fireworks, young people dressed as devils. Next year, they’ll do it all over again.
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