KYOTO’S ON FIRE
Autumn in the Japanese city is an especially beautiful time as the trees burst into colour, and there’s much more to do besides. Danielle Demetriou offers a city guide
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Kyoto’s temperatures have moderated and the ancient capital is about to undergo its annual autumn makeover, when parks, temples and gardens burst into a palette of red, orange and yellow trees. It’s truly beautiful. For late October, Qatar Airways has flights from Joburg to Tokyo via Hong Kong for around R11,000. Cathay Pacific, going via Hong Kong, has flights for around R13,000. Flights on Singapore Airlines start from R13,000.
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Kanamean Nishitomiya, pictured below, is a luxurious modern take on a traditional ryokan inn, complete with a small courtyard garden, surrounded by seven tatami mat guest rooms. Doubles from R6,000. See kanamean.co.jp
A more affordable option is the Celestine Kyoto, a low-key yet stylishly finished hotel in Gion, a district famed for its tea houses and geisha heritage. Doubles from R3,180. celestinehotels.jp
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Take a Zen stroll along the poetically named Philosopher’s Path, a canal stretching more than a kilometre, leading to a string of temples with autumnal gardens. Start at the southern end with a stop at Nanzenji Temple, a complex with Zen gardens and walkways. Continuing north, take a detour at Honen-in Temple, with its thatched gate, carp pond and, of course, its red maple trees.
The grand finale? The seasonal trees ablaze with colour in the grounds of Ginkakuji Temple (aka “Silver Pavilion”) at the path’s northernmost tip.
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Ikebana, right, is the Japanese art of flower arranging. Make your own creation at Ami Kyoto. See whattodoinkyoto.com
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Pick up a handcrafted metal tea caddy produced by family-run Kaikado
(kaikado.jp/english). Visit its store on a quiet side street, then enjoy a cup of tea around the corner in stylish Kaikado Café. kaikado-cafe.jp
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Walk up the hill — lined with tearooms and trinket shops — that leads to the iconic Kiyomizu-dera Temple, pictured above. Never mind the climb (and crowds), just make a beeline for its raised wooden stage and enjoy the view of the sweeping impressionist medley of autumn foliage that surrounds the city.
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Bar K-ya is a small but atmospheric enclave not far from Nishiki Market, with a wooden counter and Japanese whiskies on the menu. Drinks around R130, plus R65 cover charge.
EAT HERE
It’s all about kaiseki-style banquets — countless courses of seasonal delicacies on eye-catching ceramics — at Kikunoi, a triple Michelin-starred restaurant in a traditional building. From R2,615, with wine. (kikunoi.jp).
OFF THE MAP
Head to Kameoka Station (less than 30 minutes from Kyoto) then take a boat ride along Hozugawa River, surrounded by dense forest. (hozugawakudari.jp/ en; R540).