Sunday Times

KAROO CUTIE

- ELIZABETH SLEITH

LOCATION

On a deliciousl­y named dirt road called Darling Street in Hanover in the Karoo.

This town in the Northern Cape is said to occupy the very middle of SA — being halfway between Joburg and Cape Town; Cape Town and Durban; and Upington and Port Elizabeth — so it’s a perfect pit-stop point for travellers to pretty much anywhere that’s anywhere.

STYLE

It’s a typical Karoo house, with traditiona­l iron roof and wide stoep, that has been converted into a guesthouse, with eight suites looking out onto a central courtyard.

Though inside the rooms are plush and spacious — our room had an en-suite you could ballroom dance in around the ball-andclaw bath — outside, the tight layout does mean you lose the sense of space and isolation you expect from a stay in the Karoo.

You are kind of on top of your neighbours, and if you hang out too long in the dining area after dinner, they will complain about you on TripAdviso­r.

Decor wise, it’s delightful if you like a bit of quirk, embracing all the symbols of the region with an artsy twist: think windpumps on the walls, beaded sheep sculptures in the garden, a giant mounted kudu head in the bar, and rustic side tables built from twigs.

FACILITIES

A pool is a deal-breaker in the Karoo, especially in the sizzle of December/January. The good news is that this guesthouse does have one. The bad news is its proportion­s are so tiny, it might have been better put to use as a sheep-dipping tank. A one-at-a-time policy must surely apply.

The rooms also have flat-screen TVs with DStv, air-conditioni­ng, bar fridges, safes, tea and coffee facilities.

ACTIVITIES

Olive Schreiner lived here between 1900 and 1907 and her old cottage is today a national monument on the corner of Grace and New streets.

There is a koppie just outside of town called Trappiesko­p Mountain. The site where SA’s first observator­y stood before it was moved to Sutherland, it still offers glorious views for the intrepid explorer.

Also, do stop in at the old-world style A Touch of Karoo Madness Pub, for an Olof-enCoke and a chat with some locals, who’ll be chilling at the bar at the end of a long, hot day. Just don’t ask them what they do around there — it makes them bristle.

SERVICE

The staff were pleasant enough, though I think, over-worked and perhaps overwhelme­d. Two ladies for a full house seems a bit thin and I felt a bit sorry for them.

HOW’S THE GRUB?

They will call to ask on the day of your arrival whether you want to have dinner there. We did. The “traditiona­l Karoo dinner”, as it was billed, was a short-lived affair, partially because there was no starter, but also because the lamb shank was so utterly edible it didn’t languish long on the plate. They should dispense immediatel­y, however, with the side dish: mixed frozen veg that very likely came from a bag. Luckily, the koeksuster­s were a sweet consolatio­n.

RATES

You’ll get the best rate — all per unit per night — by contacting them directly (yes, it is more expensive on booking.com): a family unit is R1,400; triple room R1,200; twin and double rooms R950. Breakfast is R100 per person. Dinner R220.

CONTACT

Phone 081-077-0151 or visit boutiquegu­esthouseha­nover.co.za.

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