A FINE LINE
Peter Tempelhoff’s new restaurant is a perfect balance of Eastern and African influences
Peter Tempelhoff is a household name for local food aficionados. He’s consistently hovered in the top 10 of restaurant ratings throughout his career in SA, so when he announced a new venture, interest was piqued. Known for his dedication to seasonal produce and innovative, irreverent style, it’s not surprising that FYN, in Cape Town’s city centre, would draw such anticipation. A fusion of Japanese and African influences, the intriguing premise turned out to be set in an equally intriguing space. Executive chef Ashley Moss and GM Jennifer Hugé are part of the new venue’s success.
The restored heritage-building site elevates the restaurant from a venue to a destination. A ride up in a vintage lift, and a journey through a darkened passageway sets the scene and creates anticipation for guests. The final reveal shows an expansive but intimate double-volume space with panoramic city and mountain views laid out through huge glass windows. In essence you’re in a beautifully decorated glass box looking out over the city.
This first impression echoes Tempelhoff’s concept of “relaxed” fine dining by striking a balance between sense of occasion and wow factor. Rooted in simplicity, the interiors by Tristan du Plessis walk this fine line, while also reflecting the Asia meets Africa concept of the menu and the Kaiseki influence on the dishes.
The designer’s brief was to create something urban in sensibility that married the influences embedded in the dishes. The resulting moody space combines earthy tones and layered textures, but is fairly low-key by Cape Town fine-dining restaurant standards.
A no-frills take on table decoration (no cloths, a simple bonsai as adornment) and a sparing palette throughout — a cool, down-to-earth combination of green, grey and brown — paves the way for a sense of calm.
Glass, dark stained wood, forestgreen leather banquettes and accents of brass add subtlety and elegance. Best described as luxurious minimalism, the deep tones, clean lines and natural textures are an earthy take on Zen.
Guests have the option to dine at a table or around the bar (a sort of chef’s table, as the kitchen is central in the space). In the kitchen there is both theatre and calm as the team preps, cooks and plates with efficiency and poise. The food comes in a curated assortment of bowls, trays and dishes — mismatched, but all with a nod to either the African or Asian aspect of the restaurant — a lovely visual touch that drives home FYN’s attention to detail.
Be there in time for sunset, when the space is drenched in a golden glow and the sensational mobile installation made up of timber discs catches the light.
Book online at fynrestaurant.co.za