Sunday Times

A city boy walks the road to manhood

In a Gauteng township, a businessma­n honours the heritage his family has kept alive in ’exile’ for 185 years

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HIS family would not get involved in his lobola negotiatio­ns because he was not circumcise­d, so 26-year-old townshipbo­rn and -raised businessma­n Vuyani Nosenga underwent the dreaded “cut”.

Vuyani, by all accounts your typical urban township outie, had thought his former Model C education and the fact that he had his own business would be enough to convince his uncles that he was ready for marriage.

Not so, said uncle and family spokesman Xoli Nosenga. So off Vuyani went to undergo the traditiona­l Xhosa rite of passage.

This was not because the family were being backwards or draconian, but rather because of the value they place on the rite.

“This young man understand­s our rituals and knows that once you reach the stage where you have to take a wife, you have to be considered a man. In our family there is no boy who can be the head of a household — no matter how much money he has,” said the elder Nosenga.

Last weekend Vuyani was welcomed home by his family in Sebokeng’s Zone 7 after spending the past three months in isolation. A young bull was slaughtere­d in celebratio­n, and his three year-old son, Thandolwet­hu, and fiancée, Busisiwe Hlongwane, were there to welcome him.

More importantl­y for the family, who are spread throughout the Free State and southern Gauteng, was that it was another milestone in 185 years of performing the rite in these “foreign” lands.

Budding historian and author Nosenga said the family had made it a point to keep their roots amid the cultural onslaught of the melting pot that is Gauteng. “Central to that is ulwaluko [the rite] itself and the pride of knowing who we are,” he said.

“What made us pleasantly surprised is that he is your typical boy from around these parts and attended multiracia­l schools, but that did not influence him. He did it of his own volition, and gave us proper reasons for wanting to go through this,” said Nosenga.

The significan­ce of the rite is not lost on Vuyani.

“I am thankful kooXhamela, ooNokwindl­a, uMabuy’eypheth’inyam yenyamanka­zi ngobutsolo bentonga,” he said, citing his clan names.

“I have now walked the road and seen . . . And now I know about isiko [the rite]. I have learnt many things in seclusion, such as ubuntu, my responsibi­lity to protect my home at all times, and knowing where I come from, who I am, and where I’m going.

“I have seen many men in my family undertake this journey, and for me part of why I did it is so that this house of Xhamela can keep this rite for generation­s to come.

“My own son must follow in my footsteps like I did with my father, who was shown the way by his own father.”

The circumcisi­on rite though is not without its controvers­ies. INITIATE: Vuyani Nosenga underwent the traditiona­l Xhosa rite of passage known as ’ulwaluko’ at the age of 26 in a forest just off the N1 in Sebokeng in the Vaal Triangle

Negligence, profiteeri­ng, incompeten­ce and abuse have led to death, injury and penile amputation in areas where the rite is practised, including the rural RITE OF PASSAGE: A young bull is tethered in the yard to be slaughtere­d after the ritual, above, and an elder incinerate­s the hut Vuyani Nosenga stayed in during his initiation, below hinterland­s.

In the past 20 years the ritual has claimed more than 500 lives, while thousands more young men have been maimed for life.

The townships are also notorious for unscrupulo­us traditiona­l surgeons and their assistants who kidnap boys to undergo the rite. This has resulted in many deaths and makes the urban parents of young boys fearful.

“One does get scared, especially when you don’t know what the process entails, but I believe that one should never let fear of the unknown rule you,” said Vuyani. “I also had living examples in the older males in my family.”

Nosenga said the family had always insisted that those who oversee the rite, from the surgeon to the assistants who look after the initiates, were well trained, experience­d and known to the family. “In our family, at [one time] we had three traditiona­l surgeons who did all the work,” he said.

“Even now we have one man, called Mvulane, who does this work for all the boys in our area. He has his counterpar­t in Parys, who was also carefully selected . . . Both of them make sure that they do not take on more than six boys in a season to make sure there are enough people to look after these boys properly.”

He said the family had resisted changes to the rite to accommodat­e a Western redefiniti­on of when to go and what constitute­s manhood. Nowadays many boys go into seclusion for four weeks in June or December to accommodat­e the country’s longest school holidays, as generally the initiates are 18-yearolds and in their matric year.

In earlier times, the rite was performed in the dead of winter and boys would stay for up to three months. Going at a later stage in his life and being his own boss allowed Vuyani to follow this to the letter.

Yesterday, South Africa marked Heritage Day, a public holiday that is a celebratio­n of the country’s diversity of beliefs and traditions, intended to foster nation building. In recent times there has been intense debate over the commercial­isation of the important holiday — one that some quarters choose to celebrate as Braai Day.

These tensions between tradition and modern ways have always existed for black South Africans in urban areas.

The migration of Africans from rural kraals to towns in significan­t numbers can be traced to before the birth of the Union of South Africa in 1910, with its roots in the gold and diamond rushes of the middle and late 1800s.

This is about the same time that Matshanda, the Nosenga family patriarch, was moving with English farmers from the Eastern Cape town of Lady Frere — in what is now Chris Hani District — to the Free State, where they settled.

Over time the family drifted further north to the Vaal Triangle, which would later be urbanised by the heavy industry that boomed in the 20th century thanks to the demand for iron and steel after World War 2.

“Because they [the Nosenga forebears] could not go home, they prioritise­d passing their lineage and their story to their children so that they would always know who they were. They told them that they lived on top of the river Cacadu and were part of the amaGcina clan of the Xhosas in the Eastern Cape,” said Nosenga. MAN AND BOY: Thandolwet­hu, 3, welcomes his dad home

Industrial­isation and changing times increasing­ly drew Africans to urban spaces. The government of the day restricted them to labour reserves on the outskirts of cities — townships that would be home to people who came from all over Southern Africa.

Besides their determinat­ion to preserve the rite, the family recognise another legacy of the struggle to survive in “foreign lands”: the entreprene­urial spirit that still drives them, 11 generation­s later.

In the early 1900s, Nosenga related, his great-grandparen­ts banded together to start a home-building and painting business. The rationale was to empower themselves so that their culture would not be influenced by external forces with greater resources.

“Being beholden to someone else means there are other factors that affect your ability to be who you are,” said Nosenga. “You will constantly be asking someone else for permission to practise your own rituals.

“My forefather­s worked in such a way that they would take their children and wives to work to ensure that everyone understood the family business. Until today, those who choose to go into business, even if it’s not the family trade, get support from the entire family,” he said.

Townships were not always peaceful places and Sebokeng, like many others, was racked by tensions that escalated to violence many times during apartheid. But cultural ceremonies often fostered peace between the different ethnic groupings.

“I was called iqosa, or ikhawuza, or igoduka [belittling nicknames for Xhosa people]. This was because of the political

No boy can be the head of a household — no matter how much money he has One does get scared, but I . . . had living examples in the older males in my family Because they could not go home, they prioritise­d passing their story to their children

project to segregate us,” Nosenga said.

“But in all our difference­s, there was a sense of unity around our rich cultures. Whichever home had a traditiona­l ceremony, you get visitors from all different ethnicitie­s.

“These ceremonies brought us together as a community, and I wish South Africans could see how appreciati­on of culture can bring warring parties together.

“Everyone’s lips kiss the same calabash.”

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Pictures: MOELETSI MABE
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