Fish stock

Roughly chop the onion, leeks and celery. Put the alcohol, vegetables, aromatics (except the saffron) and water into a large stainless-steel pot and bring to the boil.

Add the fish bones, smoked fish offcuts as well as the prawn and crayfish shells. Turn down to a simmer and leave to gently bubble for 1 hour.

Remove from the heat and strain through a muslin cloth or tea towel to remove all the particles. Once strained, put the saffron in and let it all infuse for at least an hour.

Soup is always difficult to pair with wine, and this is quite a clean and flavoursome offering.

Something fragrant, like the Vergelegen Reserve Semillon, would be ideal. Or something quite different, like the very dry and austere Monis Fino Sherry.