Stuck in no man’s land
ON THE FENCE: 4X4 AROUND TEMBE AND KOSI BAY Exploring the eastern coastline in Kingsley Holgate’s vehicle of choice.
Adriaan Roets
To the left is Mozambique and on our right is the Tembe Elephant Park, part of South Africa. We’re on a 4x4 only road between the two countries, but it doesn’t belong to either. Think of it as international waters. We’ve been warned that syndicates, from poaching to crime, use the road to perform their nefarious deeds – and there’s the very real danger that some of the Big Five might emerge from the dark. The clouds started pouring rain and the thunderclaps were loud and we just got stuck thanks to loose sand.
To make matters worse, as the second last car in a Land Rover convoy heading to the Kosi Bay Border post on a single lane road, we’re keeping up the team bringing up the rear. They can’t get around to pull us out, while seasoned explorers like Kingsley Holgate and a crew from Land Rover had moved on at the front of the pack. There was nothing to do but to see if we can get unstuck by digging or wait for someone from the team ahead to turn back. But considering it’s pitch black and we only have the torches from our cell phones (at least its still useful without reception) I became very aware that except for cracking jokes that I at least have to outrun the smokers if something happens, I’m pretty useless in this sort of emergency. But, alas, I forgot we were travelling in a Land Rover, cars made to withstand whatever nature throws at them.
Perhaps 30 minutes later headlights appeared on the horizon, with Holgate’s friend and fellow explorer Mike Nixon ready to come get us out of a tough spot. Quick as a hiccup, we’re out (after letting out some air from the tyres so the Discovery Sport we’re driving has a bit more traction) – and pulling us out of the hole.
This comes just two weeks after I climbed behind the wheel of one of the all-new Discovery's at the #TwoIcons tour of Jaguar and Land Rover at Sandton City.
Set in the now transformed parking area of Sandton City’s rooftop, Land Rover provides a variety of obstacles to challenge the capabilities of the latest vehicles and drivers bearing the Land Rover badge.
The vehicles, smooth as butter, glide over these man-made obstacles. That is thanks to savvy navigation systems and instructors that really won’t allow you to crash into anything.
Out in the wild, it's different. We’re on this odd road to do exactly that – test the capabilities of these hardy vehicles – it’s after all the car of choice for Holgate who uses the same vehicles to traverse Africa in a number of expeditions.
The road to Kosi Bay is a rough one, but its para- dise for hardened 4x4 owners.
While the terrain is hard to cross, you’re rewarded with unspoiled beauty of the most eastern part of South Africa.
Kosi Bay seems to be a kind of niche destination – because to get to the mouth you need a specialised vehicle – but once you’re
But, alas, I forgot we were travelling in a Land Rover.
part of the elite group of people that have seen this historic area, it’s the kind of experience that lingers. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site the area has a lot of importance.
Kosi Bay is the cultural capital of the ancient Tsonga Tembe kingdom and the original home of Tsonga people. This history dates back hundreds of years thanks to the primitive fish traps which were set up in the area. The traps, still visible today, still tie in with fishing practices which are quite common. As one of the most isolated beaches in South Africa, fishermen still come here in droves to wet their lines. The crystal clear water means that you can even see the bounty of the ocean swimming about. If you love serenity, it’s the sort of place you need to visit.
Close by is the Tembe Elephant Park, another 4x4 only area. Featuring long tusk elephants, considered to be some of the largest pachyderms in existence – its a treat for animal lovers. These giants are however not that easy to spot, but once you stumble onto a herd you will again marvel at these creatures. The rest of the Big Five are also present, along with an estimated 340 bird species.
But back at Kosi Bay we celebrated the send-off for the latest Holgate expedition team who came here to fill their symbolic Zulu calabash and embark on their 33rd geographic and humanitarian expedition to some of the least-visited regions on the Horn of Africa, which is currently suffering one of the worst droughts and famines in living memory.
Linking two World Heritage Sites, the Extreme East Expedition started at the most extreme easterly point on the coast of South Africa and journey to the ancient walled city of Harar, the most easterly historic city in Ethiopia, beyond which lies Somaliland and the Horn of Africa – the final destination for the expedition.
Kingsley, his son Ross and their expedition team are the only group of modern-day explorers to have travelled to all 54 African countries, including all of the island states. Their 2009 ‘Outside Edge’ expedition was the first to track the entire outline of Africa in a 64 327km journey through 33 countries over 449 days. More recently, their world-first ‘Heart of Africa’ expedition succeeded in identifying and reaching the geographic centre of Africa, deep in the rainforests of the Republic of Congo, close to the border with the Central African Republic.
A geographic beacon, recognised by the International Geographic Union (IGU), now marks the centre-point of Africa. I can’t help but feel I could join them too, now that I know what it feels like to get stuck, and saved, in a Land Rover.
If you live in or around Johannesburg you too can get behind the steering wheel at the #TwoIconsTour at Sandton City until November 5. More information online landrover.co.za/twoiconstour