Nectar that sparkles
ABSA CHAMPAGNE FESTIVAL: 40 LABELS FROM SMALL AND BIG PRODUCERS
From the part of France that produces some of the world’s best sparkling wines.
Champagne. A bubbly personality, down to earth, with a dry sense of humour. And expensive taste. France’s most famous drink import conjures up images of sunny days on yachts, celebrations and the good life.
Ironically, the images of mass-produced champagnes that so quickly intrude are not a real celebration of Champagne – the area in France that produces some of the best sparkling wines in the world.
It’s the smaller and mid-sized producers that we seldom get to experience here in South Africa that really rise to the top.
But for 17 years the Absa Champagne Festival has given those with a taste for luxury the opportunity to taste the real champagne, as well as the famous brands that have made champagne one of the most desirable drinks in the world.
“The history of Champagne winemakers over the last 200 years is that a lot of small vineyards and families used to sell these grapes to larger producers. More and more small growers are creating a culture of champagne growers and makers which is exciting,” says Shaun Anderson, chairperson of the Champagne Importers Association and the founder of the Absa Champagne Festival.
It’s exciting because these small growers ensure the outside world gets a sense of the wine-making in Champagne. “Small growers can’t have a house style every year, because the grapes are different. Instead every year you will get a variation in the bottle and that’s the joy of it.”
Not that Anderson knocks Grand Marque Champagne producers. The difference is that each bottle will have a sameness. “This is one of the reasons the festival is unique, there’s a combination of big and mid-sized producers and growers,” he adds.
The festival also explores champagne as a pairing wine – and that’s really where it sparkles. “Champagne by its nature has high acidity and is bone dry and goes brilliantly with oily fish. Rosé champagne pairs well with pork and chicken while demi-secs are perfect for sweeter food.”
The festival also has different foods that change the flavour profile of the 40 champagnes. This year there will be morsels like mini black taco with BBQ chicken, sour cream and mango chilli salsa served off fresh limes, tarts topped with artichokes, leeks, pear, avocado and caramelised white onions. But one hit annually is oysters. “Every year we run out of Saldana oysters,” he says.