Still some big names at NYFW

New York is the first stop in the world’s runway carnival that heads to Milan, London and Paris, but little by little, the top names in the business are foregoing a stateside catwalk show.

The most notable absence is that of Raf Simons who has left Calvin Klein.

Others who have moved on – to different cities, or by dispensing with runway presentations – are Victoria Beckham, Rodarte by the Mulleavy sisters (in LA), Monse and Rihanna. Beckham, whose design is pictured below on the New York runway in 2017, now shows in London.

But a few must-see shows remain: there was Tom Ford on Wednesday night and Marc Jacobs on February 13.

Ford went back to the archives of his fall-winter 1996 collection for Gucci which sealed his reputation as a major talent.

Long, fluid backless gowns were reminiscent of the series of white dresses he showed in Milan more than 20 years ago. A red pants suit recalled a similar ensemble he sent out back in the day. But the cuts and styles had a modern touch – more cleavage, more tightly cinched waists and cropped trousers.

Ralph Lauren – another reference point in a New York Fashion week lacking some spark – will hit the runway on Thursday.

“NYFW has been more about business than creation for a long time,” said Eugene Rabkin, editor of StyleZeitgeist. “It will take a fantastically talented designer in the mold of Thom Browne, who will probably come out of nowhere, to shake things up.” – AFP