Women push way into male-dominated taco world
Mexico City – Chopping meat and offal at her street food stall in one of Mexico City’s roughest neighbourhoods, Maria del Pilar Cortes is a rare sight in the capital’s male-dominated taco world.
The 75 year old and her sister are among the few women who dedicate themselves to preparing the street-food favourite devoured by millions every day.
“We grew up here and I think that’s why it isn’t hard for us,” she said in front of a large pan where meat, intestines and other offal are cooked at their restaurant, Las Corazonas.
Cortes skilfully wields a meat cleaver to chop up the contents for the corn tortillas she sells in the Tepito district, following in the footsteps of their mother, who did the same work.
“I’m proud to know that we as women are entrepreneurs and an example for many women,” said Cortes’ sister, Maria Guadalupe.
The 70 year old is in charge of going out every day at dawn to buy dozens of kilos of meat: “Any woman can do it,” she said.
Mexico City boasts 11 000 taco restaurants, according to a map created by geographer Baruch Sangines, based on data from national statistics agency Inegi.
Some 94% of the capital’s 9.2 million inhabitants live less than five minutes from a taco stand, according to Sangines.
The country has more than 90 000 taco stands and restaurants, but only a small minority have women cooks.
Sangines thinks it is due to custom and tradition.
In the south of Mexico City, several women behind a large griddle and surrounded by a cloud of steam prepared meat at the taco restaurant, Las Munecas.
Co-owner Teresa Hernandez said her mother started the business in 1985.
At first, her mother sold quesadillas and other fast food, before deciding to venture into tacos.
“When she began to make the transition, people suggested that she bring in men” because “everything was going to be heavier”, Hernandez said.
“But my mother said she wouldn’t get rid of any of her girls for a man,” she added.
In total, 23 women work for the restaurant, with schedules that allow them to take their children to school.
“My mother always sought to protect women,” Hernandez said.
Maria Guadalupe Cortes had a message for other women trying to break into the male-dominated world, urging them to “just keep going – and don’t give up”. –