Retreat, reconnect and regenerate at In Toto
It’s seldom that an accommodation establishment achieves a perfect blend of sophistication and genuinely warm, down-to-earth hospitality.
I walked into In Toto Retreat in Sedgefield, The Island, and immediately felt welcome.
The décor reminded me of Bali. There is lots of wood, some bespoke pieces like the massive carved wooden doors, and it’s the perfect example of biophilic design where nature, light and sunshine are encouraged to flow in through huge windows from the dining areas through to the six suites on offer.
In Toto offers every mod-con that guests could want, from gorgeous rooms, fine linen and perfect pillows, attention to detail and luxury furnishings to huge, individually styled bathrooms which feel luxurious.
But there’s something special here, an intangible sort of homefrom-home feeling.
What touched me was the spirit here at In Toto, if that is even the right word.
There is a dedicated play area for children in the lounge — a whole box of toys and even a chalkboard for them to doodle on.
There are laden bookshelves for guests to borrow and enjoy, there are comfy couches to curl up in.
Breakfasts and other meals are served at a long wooden communal table.
When we were there, there were a British couple and other guests of various ages and nationalities.
Co-owner Roland Vorwerk was in the open-plan kitchen making us all breakfast.
Conversation flowed and friendships were made — all testament to the ethos of In Toto Retreat.
Guests are welcome to do their own thing at the braai area off the kitchen.
Roland and his husband Richard Delate bought the property in 2022.
They are based in Johannesburg, and were on the Garden Route on holiday.
It was a weekend and just for the heck of it they decided to look at some properties on the market. They saw In Toto Retreat and bought it the same day.
Vorwerk comes from a background of conservation and tourism destination-marketing.
Since they bought it, they have ploughed love into it like getting it to a place where it is fully powered by a hybrid solar system.
This week, they achieved their Fair Trade Tourism (FTT) certification.
They met the comprehensive requirements for this certificate which entail a commitment to local procurement, responsibly managing its environmental impact and ensuring fair wages and working conditions, among other conditions.
Vorwerk has been dedicated to the journey of getting FTT certification for nearly two years.
“It’s part of our commitment to deliver an all-encompassing In Toto experience.
“We are aware of the splendid natural beauty and cultural heritage that the Garden Route offers guests and our responsibility to be custodians for future generations to enjoy.
“We value our engagement and partnerships with our local community.”
In Toto Retreat is located in Sedgefield on The Island right on the Swartvlei estuary.
There are six individual suites to choose from or very often a big family or group of friends will book the whole house.
The Swartvlei is the largest and deepest lake in the Wilderness section of the Garden Route National Park.
It is an estuarine lake system and is connected to the Indian Ocean at certain times of the year.
The three tributaries that feed the lake are the Wolwe, Karatara and Hoogekraal rivers.
Take a stroll from In Toto’s front door and the serenity of the Swartvlei is all yours.
Take a dip in water that is always warmer than the sea, just chill on a picnic blanket overlooking the vlei and be sure to walk the promenade.
It’s the perfect place for children to paddle and swim safely. In Toto also offers guests kayaks and standup paddle boards.
Sedgefield is perfectly located on the Garden Route as it is 43km from the George Airport, 21km from Wilderness and 29km from Knysna.
From here it’s one kilometre from the Wild Oats Community Market, the Mosaic Craft Market and the Scarab Art Market.
There are beaches close by, forest and fynbos hiking, lakeside bird hides, paragliding and mountain trails all very nearby. What more could a person want!
Each room has been appropriately named: Enjoy sweeping views over the Swartvlei Lagoon and the opposing dune from the spacious Swartvlei Suite.
Take in stunning sunsets or experience tranquil sunrises from your own balcony. Curl up with a great book in your nest chair.
You needn’t even leave the room if you don’t feel like it — there’ sa microwave, fridge, coffee station, crockery and cutlery and of course a TV and Wi-Fi for those who don’t know how to switch off completely.
Then there is the Goliath Heron suite.
This bird is the world’s largest living heron and is a solitary forager, feeding primarily on fish and frogs, small mammals and reptiles.
The Goliath heron is found throughout SA and is one of 158 bird species that make The Island here at Sedgefield their home.
Ask Roland to show you their resident heron’s favourite spot and you may just see it nesting in its tree or perhaps strolling along the water’s edge as it is known to do.
The Knysna seahorse is only found in three estuaries of the Garden Route; the Swartvlei, the Knysna Lagoon and Keurbooms River in Plettenberg Bay.
This seahorse can be up to 12cm in length and its colour varies from pale green to brown.
Take a paddle or use one of In Toto’s stand-up paddle-boards on the Swartvlei lagoon and you may just get lucky and spot this unique little character.
There are five indigenous species of strelitzia in SA, also known as the Crane Flower or Bird of Paradise.
Two are located at In Toto — the imposing arborescent banana-like Strelitzia Alba with its striking white flowers and the Strelitzia Regina with its striking orange colours, so it’s no surprise there is a Strelitzia Suite.
Sedgefield is known as Africa’s slow town, inviting you to get out of the rat race and slow down, do as little as possible or as much as you wish for.
Visit the beaches in the area; Swartvlei Beach and Gericke’s Point (The Sphinx of the Garden Route), Myoli Beach, Cola Beach, Sedgefield Estuary, Platbank (Goukamma Nature Reserve), Buffalo Bay and Wilderness Beach.
Visit the popular sundowner spots on the banks of the Swartvlei Pili Beach Bar, Cloud Nine. Birders will be in their element at the Malachite and Rondvlei bird hides in the area.
Listen for the call of the African fish eagle, spot the iconic Knysna Turaco, the Greater and Lesser flamingoes and the Goliath heron or watch an abundance of water birds as they glide by from hides on the Wilderness lakes.
There are plenty of hiking trails from here like the Goukamma Nature Reserve; Brownhooded Kingfisher Trail, Half-collared Kingfisher Trail; Cape Dune Mole Rat Trail and Woodeville Big Tree.
Mountain bikers can test their skills at the Garden Route Trail Park in Karatara or one of the recommended trails by local bike shop Cycleworx.
Water lovers are in heaven as they can go sailing, kitesurfing or even brush up on some surfing skills at Myoli Beach.
If you want to be above par, then test your skills at some of the world famous golf courses in the area.
Roland likes introducing his guests to the locals, so just ask him to make some suggestions.
Don’t miss the Sedgefield Wild Oats Community Farmers’ Market, the Scarab Village Craft Market, Mosaic Village and Outdoor Market and Timberlake Village.
There are enough restaurants, from Trattoria da Vinci (Italian), Lio-la (Vegan), Mosaic Table, Slow Roasted Coffee, Moonshine Diner, VDMs, Pili Pili Beach Bar, Montecello’s Restaurant, Oysters Edge, Upstairs at Rosies, Fynbos on Sea Bistro, The Wildside Beach Restaurant (Buffalo Bay) — enough of a choice to “Feed Phil”.
Then Sedgefield is known for its 61 mosaics.
It’s well worth doing the Masithandane Mosaic Route — with all profits going to this communitybased organisation.
The mosaics in Sedgefield rival those in the rest of the world and are quite astonishing — impossible to miss.
In Toto Retreat is a gem. Few places offer an experience like this, from a family holiday packed with wholesome things to do, to a romantic getaway to a business indaba.
Eat, live, pray here!