The Independent on Saturday

Chilli of Soweto a hot favourite

- NONI MOKATI

EARL Mofokeng, who grew up in KwaZulu-Natal, combs through the patch of soil with his bare hands. Pride and determinat­ion are evident in his face.

“We’re going to be the hottest joint in Soweto for years to come,” he says excitedly.

There’s an intended pun in “hottest” because the company Mofokeng works for, Siyazenzel­a (we’re doing it ourselves) Plant Biotech, has received recognitio­n for its Chilli of Soweto.

The chilli has been included in the internatio­nal Ark of Taste, a catalogue of endangered heritage foods compiled by the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversi­ty, and has spiced things up for the company, which produces 200kg of chillies in season.

The Ark of Taste lists species and products unique to a country and which should be protected.

This acknowledg­ement can be likened to winning an Olympic gold medal – a feat which thrills Mofokeng, a manager employed by agricultur­al consultant and Siyazenzel­a director, Phila Cele.

The winter has dried out the garden where the company grows the chillies and other fresh produce, such as Chinese spinach, carrots and onions, but Mofokeng says the chilli seedlings have been planted in good time for summer.

Cele, 31, studied microbiolo­gy at Wits University and completed his honours in plant biotechnol­ogy.

When he graduated, he, a friend, Sakhile Skhosana, and three other partners scouted for a piece of land.

“Sakhile grew up in Soweto, so he knew Phiri Primary School had moved. We approached the principal and he agreed to allow us to use the land.”

Cele’s mother sent him the chilli seedlings, and compost and mulch were applied to the soil. Then Cele and his team approached street vendors in Yeoville, Hillbrow and Lenasia, offering to sell them chillies.

“They couldn’t get enough… I’m talking about Indian communitie­s who beg for our chillies,” says Cele.

“I’m not even sure if it’s a jalapeño or a cayenne, but it’s definitely a cross between the two. Our chilli is hot!” ”

Butchers and tuck shop owners have caught on and use the chillies in a chilli sauce.

Brian Dick, of Slow Food SA, explains why the Chilli of Soweto is unique. “Throughout history, plants have evolved in particular locations. Where an individual, as in this case, has stored his seeds and planted them from season to season, they become indigenous. How he grows them, feeds them, the soil he uses, become part of that environmen­t.” “This chilli has been in its environmen­t long enough to be part and parcel of Soweto. There are hundreds of gardens in Soweto. And here is an opportunit­y to recognise the good work of all those small producers.”

On the far side of the garden, Mofokeng and other employees till the soil with patience and love. For the group who are trying to make Siyazenzel­a work, the fame of their chilli couldn’t have come at a better time. They will be sizzling hot this summer.

 ?? PICTURES: NOKUTHULA MBATHA ?? SOWETO’S PRIDE: Earl Mofokeng admires the seedlings which provide vegetables for the community and create employment. RIGHT: A Chilli of Soweto, which owes much of its flavour to the soil it grows in.
PICTURES: NOKUTHULA MBATHA SOWETO’S PRIDE: Earl Mofokeng admires the seedlings which provide vegetables for the community and create employment. RIGHT: A Chilli of Soweto, which owes much of its flavour to the soil it grows in.
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