The Mercury

Menswear revisited

- Jenevieve Lyons South Africa Collection name: de-fragmented (undated) How important is Fashion Week for you? Where do you go to seek artistic inspiratio­n? Nicholas Coutts South Africa The fashion industry is very competitiv­e. What sets your brand apart?

AFRICA’S only menswear-focused fashion showcase, the fifth edition of the Lexus SA Menswear Week, took place this month at The Palms in Woodstock. I chatted to three designers.

It was presented in the manner of an artistic installati­on, featuring all the campaign models from our previous two collection­s. They were initially disguised behind a stocking, which was later cut open to reveal their faces, and this was intended to tell a visual parable to intrigue fashion-lovers, compelling them to think about the reasoning.

It’s about the importance of realising cultural, social, political and environmen­tal issues within a fashion context, to educate and build renewed perspectiv­es on the African fashion industry.

I find inspiratio­n in organic places. I will experience or witness something or someone that will spark interest, and this interest links up within my fashion forecastin­g stream.

“Me” is a collection that describes my journey from when I was 19 to today. In my early years, hand-me-downs from my siblings and second-hand clothes made up my wardrobe, because one couldn’t afford cool new clothes.

Added to this was my need to stand out by reinventin­g these pieces through reconstruc­ting or sometime deconstruc­ting them.

I love denim, velvet, corduroy, suede and camouflage print. I also use houndstoot­h, which can be fun and serious at the same time.

Tie dye brings character and there’s knitwear, of course, just because it’s a collection for autumn/ winter.

In the past few years, my love for tuxedos led to a path where I can respect the dress- code and also give it twist, which is subtly visible by the velvet taping on the trousers matching the jacket fabric (velvet), rather than the convention­al trouser taping matching the lapel of the tuxedo jacket.

Not to forget the smoking jacket with our trademark shawl peck lapel, with houndstoot­h trousers rather than the traditiona­l tartan checks.

For once, the collection wasn’t about predicting consumer trends but one that’s truly me and what I love.

As a bespoke tailor and fashion designer, I’d say fine tailoring, fit, quality and ability to create garments that incorporat­e this with edge.

 ??  ?? The Mai Atafo aesthetic offers tailoring, fit and quality.
The Mai Atafo aesthetic offers tailoring, fit and quality.
 ??  ?? 1970s INFLUENCE: Nicholas Coutts presented dynamic garments that the contempora­ry man can wear while making a subtle impact.
1970s INFLUENCE: Nicholas Coutts presented dynamic garments that the contempora­ry man can wear while making a subtle impact.

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